ST. MICHAEL’S, MARYLAND

st michael's, maryland travel guide

Whoa whoa whoa! It has been way too long since I’ve had any content to post here. 2020 has been a YEAR and it’s still not over. While I should be writing about Seattle, Denver, Venice, Florence, Rome, and the Amalfi Coast, instead you get the Eastern Shore of Maryland. We sulked and grumbled about the summer that wasn’t but in all reality, we made the most of it. We spent plenty of time in the Finger Lakes of NY with family, and visiting my best friend in Cleveland on their boat. But still, how could we close out the summer without a “real” vacation??

magic st. michael's maryland dock

As many of you know, our dog has a more active social life than most people. One of his dog buddies went to St. Michael’s, Maryland, and it looked amazing. S/O to Rothko for the rec! So, we booked the next available weekend, which turned out to be end of September.

We drove out to Maryland on a Thursday night, just in time for dinner. One pandemic plus: less traffic! We checked into our Airbnb and then headed right back out for food.

WHERE TO EAT:

Theo’s Steakhouse: It is on the nicer side, but still casual enough. They have a front patio and back outdoor tent with a fire table to stay warm. Magic enjoyed a small bite of my steak, which I immediately regretted after remembering his sensitive stomach. That was a big mess to clean up back at the Airbnb…

theo's steakhouse st. michael's maryland

Ava’s Pizzeria: Related to Theo’s and right next store, Ava’s has pizza, salads, sandwiches, and full entrees. They have a few tables out front, to the side, and a back area that had a roof but open walls. Again, Magic accompanied us and enjoyed the finest Eastern shore Maryland water, no snacks this time!

st. michael's maryland ava's pizzeria
st. michael's maryland ava's pizzeria

Limoncello: This Italian spot came highly recommended, but the wait for an outdoor table was 4 hours. This was surprising, since we arrived at 4:45, thinking no one else would be out yet. Shockingly, places were packed by 5pm. Make a reservation if you have your stomach set on a particular spot.

Gina’s Cafe: This little spot could easily be missed if you blink. It is at the end of the main drag, with a tiny inside and a sizable covered back patio. They have nachos, tacos, and drinks. If the tacos were gluten free, we definitely would’ve stopped here.

Awful Arthur’s: I can’t believe how different this Awful Arthur’s is from others in the regional chain. I’ve been to one in Roanoke for work, and this one is the complete opposite. They have a lovely outdoor patio and front porch seating. If you like seafood, this is your spot.

Eat Sprout: Great spot to grab healthy food to go. They are only open 8-4, but worth a stop for their seasonal nitro cold brew, acai bowls, or smoothies. The prepared food is pricey, though.

st. michael's maryland sprout
st. michael's maryland sprout coffee

The Blue Crab: Small coffee shop tucked away off the main street. When we visited, I believe it was carryout only.

Blue Heron Coffee: Another small coffee spot with a few tables outside toward the end of the Talbot St. strip.

Agave Arts: I wanted to try their fresh pressed juice, but they had very limited hours.

The Galley: It is an old bank building with a big wrap around patio, ideal for the drizzly morning weather we encountered. It is a busy breakfast/brunch place, but slowed down in the evening.

galley st. michael's maryland

Gluten Free Girl Bakery: They had gluten free vegan apple cider donuts! Wow, I am so high maintenance. You can order ahead and pick up at their window, or make an impulse purchase at the walk-up window while supplies last. I regret not getting more to bring back home, but they were not open on Sunday morning. But also, why do I have to go to Maryland to get the best gluten-free goodies? D.C., take note!

gluten free girl bakery st. michael's maryland
gluten free girl bakery st. michael's maryland

Hammy’s: This is also related to Theo’s and Ava’s. It definitely looked like a dive bar, but had a great back patio with umbrellas and fire pits (again, caught in a drizzle). They had no problem with Magic trotting through the bar to get to the patio.

hammy's st. michael's maryland
hammy's st. michael's, maryland

Bistro: We had brunch reservations here that I was so excited about! I had already picked out what I wanted and was dreaming of my chorizo hash bowl. Please tell me I’m not the only person who goes in knowing what they want after looking online?! The plan was to eat then hit the road back to D.C. Well, our car had other plans. The low tire pressure alert came on as we were heading to the restaurant. We stopped to get air and heard a hissing sound. Not good. So, we high-tailed it home hungry and worried we may not make it. Long story short, it held up fine and we forgot about it…until I was starting my drive way out in Virginia this past weekend and the alert came back on.

WHAT TO DO:

Steve had to work Friday morning, so I drove into town to get said donuts and stroll the streets. I could’ve spent hours just wandering up and down the residential streets admiring the historic homes. Many were decorated for fall, including the numerous bed and breakfasts near the water.

st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland

Muskrat Park: After picking up the donuts, I walked down to the harbor and found a bench to eat and enjoy the peace and quiet of the water. The following evening, we walked by after dinner and listened to live music that was coming from Foxy’s from our socially distanced park bench. 

st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland

Farmers Market: On Saturdays from 8:30-11:30am, there is a market. It was drizzling on the Saturday we were visiting, so we decided to skip, but I saw a local distillery giving samples, along with the fruits, veggies, flowers, etc.

Inn at Perry Cabin: One thing I wanted to do, but we didn’t make it to. This is the filming site of Wedding Crashers. The grounds are absolutely stunning (from afar). Our Airbnb host suggested going early and grabbing a drink to enjoy in their Adirondack chairs by the water. Also, dog friendly! They had a really unique restaurant set-up for COVID; you rent a glass house for the evening to enjoy dinner in. The deposit (just to reserve it) was $500!!!! That does not include food or drink. That’s a big NO WAY. But it looked like an amazing experience!

Maritime Museum: 99% of the museum is outside. It is dog friendly, too! Magic was treated to his own water bowl and treats at the ticket booth. The grounds include the Hooper Strait Lighthouse, a shipyard where they are recreating a historic boat, and many more exhibits. You can actually see the beautiful front lawn of the Inn at Perry Cabin from the museum grounds, in case you don’t make it there to see it up close. The museum also runs a charity boat donation program where donated boats are sold to the public, with profits put into community programming. Win-win! I would really like a boat, but I keep asking for one for Christmas and it hasn’t happened yet. You can get a discount on tickets if you show receipts from small business in St. Michaels, plus admission is good for two days.

st. michael's, maryland
working shipyard
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
Frederick Douglass’ sister’s home
st. michael's, maryland

Oxford-Bellevue Ferry: There is a ferry (dog friendly, I believe!) that takes you over to Oxford, Maryland, another quaint Eastern shore town. When I was researching what to do there, I found Capsize OXMD, a seasonal restaurant with a dog menu! They are now closed for the season.

Tilghman Island: Just a little further outside of St. Michael’s, with boat rentals and charters, a few restaurants and an old country store.

Shopping: There are a number of cute shops on Talbot Street. I wanted to stop in The Christmas Shop and look for a chow chow ornament, but Steve insisted we don’t need one. Rude. When I was in town solo, I stopped in Pemberton Pharmacy, an old time-y real pharmacy that is part gift shop. I found a fun little birthday gift there. Another fun spot was The Preppy Redneck- as the name implies. They were like a Vineyard Vines with a camo-flair.. If you are into searching for hidden treasures, I hear Antiques On Talbot is worth a visit, too.

Chartering a boat is another great idea, if the weather permits. It did not for us.

WHERE TO STAY:

There are some really cute looking bed and breakfasts near the water in St. Michaels, and the Inn at Perry Cabin is supposed to be top-notch, but very pricey. There are some more reasonable accommodations in Tilghman Island as another option. As mentioned, we went with an Airbnb that our dog friends stayed in. If anyone has tried to find a nice Airbnb that allows pets, you know the struggle. We found that out the hard way in our West Virginia and Maryland adventure! This was a gem, with a an outdoor pool, private dock, kayaks, and more. It was a short drive into town (5 or so minutes), giving us the perfect balance of seclusion and amenities nearby. The property itself was quite large, and Magic thoroughly enjoyed getting covered in mud and chasing rabbits. The house had a loft bedroom, full kitchen, and a nice outdoor fire pit that also had a grill rack for cooking on. The hosts left honey made from their bees, along with snacks and s’more materials! I bet this place is even better in the summer when it’s warm enough to swim and paddle around.

st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
st. michael's, maryland
our deer friends that we met while walking Magic on the property

TIPS:

St. Michael’s, Maryland is very compact. If you walk down and around Talbot Street, you will see pretty much everything. I think a long weekend is the perfect stay.

Almost everywhere is dog-friendly! If you aren’t sure, just ask. They will probably welcome you in.

It was possible, even in the cooler, damp weather, to eat all our meals outside (and with Magic). We felt safe and distanced from other diners, with plenty of sanitizing and mask-wearing when not eating.

People like the early bird special here! My kind of people. Get out early for dinner if you don’t want to wait for a seat.

If you need more ideas for DMV getaways, click here for recaps of quick trips in Maryland and Virginia.

st. michael's, maryland

PORTO, PORTUGAL

Thanksgiving break is a great time to escape to a place that doesn’t celebrate the holiday, and to capitalize on already having days off from work. Or, to celebrate your birthday as Steve wanted to do! We used Google flights with an open-ended destination over those dates, and Portugal came up as the cheapest option. We’ve been to Sintra, Évora, the Algarve, and Lisbon twice (1, 2), but never Porto. I guess we really like Portugal!

Our adventure began with an overnight flight to Lisbon, which was cheaper than Porto to fly into. Then, we hopped in a rental car to drive up to Porto. It takes a little under 3 hours, and it’s nearly impossible to get lost. Exit the airport, hop on the highway, and it’s a straight shot on one road up to Porto. There are plenty of rest stops along the way, and they are the nicest I have ever seen. Made-to-order meals, a full espresso bar, gift shop, and spotless restrooms. Sorry, but Sheetz doesn’t hold a candle to Portuguese rest stops!

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After we arrived in Porto, we parked the car for the remainder of our time in the city. Almost every major attraction is within a 20 minute walk radius, making it easy to see everything on foot. There’s a subway system, but we opted to see more and get some exercise by walking.

SIGHTS TO SEE:

Clérigos tower and church: This baroque church was built in the 1700’s. Climb to the top for one of the best views of the city! It’s 240 steps and not for the claustrophobic. If you want to see the museum too, visit during the day 9am-7pm, or opt for night ticket valid 7-11pm just for the views. Admission was 5 euros, cash only.

Interesting tidbit: above is a metal coffer, used to hold valuables. Now I see where the phrase “fill the coffers” originates from.

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Serralves Museum: This is the only attraction on my list outside the walkable city center, and also one of the only things we missed due to time constraints. It looked to be a 20 minute drive from our Airbnb and is open daily. For 20 euros, visitors can access the museum, park, treetop walk, house and cinema. If we ever find our way back to Porto, I won’t miss it.

There are a number of notable gardens across the city, but seen as how we visited in November, that wasn’t high on my list to see.

Livraria Lello: This is a bookstore J.K. Rowling frequented when she taught English in Porto. Supposedly, part of the Harry Potter series is inspired by this building. Yes, it’s a tourist trap, but it was stunning inside! It is open 9:30-7 every day. You must buy a ticket next door for 5 euros, but that value can be used in a book purchase. They have English and Portuguese language books. We thumbed through a book about cats (naturally), and realized Penny is a fancy, rare cat breed, the Nebelung. Or at least part fancy cat…And somewhat related, apparently Nebelung cats are part of the Harry Potter world.

Porto Cathedral: Construction started in 1110 and wasn’t completed until 1737. I know construction delays happen, but c’,mon! The cathedral is set on the top of a hill, making for a great view of the city.

Look closely and see the guy repairing a roof? My stomach dropped just watching him work without any restraints. Literally living on the edge.

Ribeira: Walk along the Douro River, and consider going across the Ponte de D. Luis bridge to see Porto from a different angle. While you’re over there, do a port tasting!

I had pinned a coffee shop, and Google maps walking directions showed a road right across from the bridge. Perfect! Turns out that “road” was about a million steep steps. The view (and coffee) was worth it, though!

Liberdade Square: Check out the ‘Porto’ sign, right next to the monument to Pedro IV. Plus, this one-eyed fountain face.

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Street art and beautiful tiles! They are both found throughout the city. Also, cats. I find them everywhere we go.

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WHAT TO BUY:

Claus Porto: Pop into this soap store for all sorts of good smelling stuff. This iconic brand started in Porto in 1887 and has recently opened a store in NYC. If you’re really into soap, head upstairs for a soap museum.

Chocolataria Equador: It smells heavenly! This chocolate shop works with São Tomé & Príncipe, an African island to produce incredible chocolate. It took all my willpower to not buy one of each to sample…

WHERE TO EAT:

If you’re looking for somewhat traditional food, try out Aduela or Trasca.

If you’re looking for healthy, hearty options, check out Nicolau (locations in Lisbon, too). Open on a Sunday night (hard to find!) and doesn’t take reservations.

Garden Porto Cafe: This spot is open 9-8 daily, has healthy options, is plant-filled, and I found a table with a swing!

Combi Coffee: Very hip coffee shop near our Airbnb, open 9-5pm. They also have delicious smoothie bowls.

My Coffee Porto: The aforementioned coffee shop 1 zillion steps up from the river. Great views from their tiny patio!

Mesa 325: This cozy coffee shop was around the corner from our Airbnb and came with a dog. SOLD! I already had it pinned to my map, but when our Airbnb host mentioned the resident canine, I knew we had to pay them a visit. Excellent overnight oats, too!

Noshi Coffee: We are about to go to Clerigos Tower when Steve decided he was hungry. Good thing we took a slight detour to eat, because climbing those stairs hangry would not have been fun (for either of us). This cute spot had a bright sunroom in the back AND an outlet. Charged up the phones and had excellent gluten free toast and tacos.

So many places to eat, so little time. If we were in town for longer, we would have made reservations at Mistu or Flow.

Casual spots that had inconvenient hours, but sounded good: Epoca Cafe and O Diplomata.

Namban Oporto Cafe: Offers Japanese Portuguese fusion

Majestic Cafe: A Porto institution. I hear the coffee and food is overpriced, but you go for the atmosphere. The outdoor patio looked beautiful, and I imagine it is packed in warmer weather.

TIPS:

If you do end up driving, keep in mind that gas is crazy expensive. At the pumps we used, you have to select quantity first (in liters), so think about how much you may need. After filling up, then you go inside to pay. That system would never fly in the U.S.!

Check the weather- they have a rainy season, which happened to be when we were there. If you’re smart, you’ll follow the rule of umbrellas/raincoats. Bring one/wear one, and it won’t rain. But as soon as you forget to carry it along, a downpour will ensue. That was our intro to the city after dinner the first night, but we didn’t get stuck in any rain after that.

WHERE TO STAY:

As I mentioned, the city is very walkable, and it felt safe any place that we wandered through. I’d say anywhere is a good spot to stay! Our Airbnb ended up being on the outskirts of the city, but still walkable to everything. It was easy to drive around, and we got an Airbnb with parking included, so we didn’t need to figure that out upon arrival. Our host said they don’t really enforce parking restrictions on the weekends (or ever?), but better safe than sorry with a rental car. Our place was located near coffee shops, a Lidl grocery store, local fruit and vegetable market, and a subway stop.

The Airbnb itself was on the ground floor of a beautiful, old building. The host lived upstairs, and had another rental unit. Plus, cats!! They had a number of rescue cats, and the black cat took a liking to us.

Here’s a handy map of attractions in Porto (zoom in to see Lisbon, Porto, and Douro Valley). Stay tuned for my recap of the Douro Valley!

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa has 3 different capitals- Cape Town is the legislative capital , Pretoria is the executive capital, and Bloemfontein is the judicial capital.  However, the biggest city is Johannesburg.  We chose Cape Town as our starting point in South Africa to be close to the water and enjoy the balance of nature and city with some side trips.  The climate in August was ideal for visiting as that is their winter.

WHAT TO DO:

My number one to-do is hike Table Mountain!  Apparently this is very weather-dependent, and we absolutely lucked out.  The odds of a clear view without the “blanket” of clouds obstructing if hard to get.  Usually, we would wing it and hike on our own (see Aconcagua in Argentina).  However, after seeing so much about crime in Cape Town, including mountain muggings, we decided to do a guided hike.  I’m so glad we did!  We found Hike Table Mountain online, and booked ahead of time.  There are multiple route options, and we settled on India Venster for the best views. The trail name comes from the ravine shaped like subcontinent of India, and Venster (window in Afrikaans) for the view framed by rocks. The company we used does offer the option to reschedule if the weather doesn’t cooperate, but we had little wiggle room in our schedule.  So, we had an early 6am wake up after getting in at 10pm the night before from the U.S. and hoped for the best.  Our guide picked us up from our hotel, and drove us to the mountain.  The hike wasn’t high altitude or super long, like Aconcagua, but it DID have some technical sections.  Some parts of the trail required actual rock climbing with strategic foot holds, so I was glad to have a professional watching! 

the warnings were no joke!
one of the scrambles

Our guide was a born-and-raised South African with a wealth of knowledge on Table Mountain and the flora/fauna.  We were part of a group including a German family, a British couple, and ourselves.  The guide took us up to the top, stopping along the way to take in the views and amazing sunrise.  She also pointed out different plants, like what to NOT touch (blister bush sounds like poison ivy x 1000).

halfway up
the sign says “this is not an easy way down”…

We crossed paths with another guide and his adorable dog, who definitely put us to shame as she bounded up the rocks gracefully.  Once we got to the top and soaked in the views, we took the cablecar back down.  The car itself rotates as you go down, so you can see a full 360 view of Cape Town and the coastline.  If we really wanted to, we could’ve hiked down, but time was of the essence!  Lots to do in a little amount of time. For a shorter hike, try Lion’s Head.

made it!
Lion’s Head from afar

Bo Kaap:  Take a stroll through the brightly colored houses in this neighborhood. This predominately Muslim area is home to Indonesian, Malaysian, and African descendants of slaves from the 16th and 17th centuries. It is thought that residents painted their homes bright colors to celebrate their new-found freedom and individuality after Apartheid. Stop in Atlas Trading Co. to find just about any spice under the sun for dirt cheap.  Check out Bo-Op, a co-op of local designers.  Steve found some lemur swim trunks, which are certainly one-of-a-kind.  I found free walking tours online through Bo Kaap, but it didn’t align with our schedule.

V&A Waterfront:  It’s pretty touristy, and reminded me of National Harbor in Maryland, but it’s right on the water and bustling with live music, shopping, and restaurants.  One place to check out is the Watershed building full of South African artisans.  It’s a one stop shop for all your handcrafted souvenir needs.  There are some hotels down here as well.

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens: Back to the recurring theme of crime…. We rented a car on the back end of our trip so we could take some side trips, and were concerned about parking in the city with all of our stuff in the car.  Our flight out of Cape Town was really late at night, and we were told not to be out driving after dark.  Maybe that was extra cautious, but better safe than sorry, right?  We decided to end our trip at the botanic gardens, because they offered free, secure parking on-site in a nice neighborhood.  We wandered around the grounds and in the greenhouses until sunset.  It was a beautiful way to end our trip! 

pretty bird in the flowers
bird of paradise, but the flower kind!
walking amongst the tree-tops

Things I would’ve done if I had another day:

Robben Island Museum: If we had another day, we would’ve taken the ferry over to Robben Island to see where Nelson Mandela was held.  

Parkrun: this is a worldwide 5k “club” that does free races.  What a great way to see the city and meet locals! And get this: they have a run in Hoedspruit, where we did our safari! Imagine that run!

Sofar Sounds: Worldwide concert series where local musicians perform in secret locations with the address revealed the day before.  Who knows, the artists may be the next Billie Eilish (famous Sofar alums)!

District Six Museum: a memorial to the 60,000 inhabitants of District Six forced to move during Apartheid in the 1970s

This post will get extremely long if we include the side trips from Cape Town, so stay tuned for Stellenbosch/Franschoek and Cape of Good Hope side trip posts!

WHERE TO EAT:

Swan Cafe: Parisian crêperie with good salads

Haas Coffee: Really loved this spot, just down the street from Swan Cafe.

Deluxe Coffeeworks: Super tiny coffee shop connected to Bo-Op in Bo Kaap

Harvest Cafe & Deli-: In Bo Kaap- Great smoothies and a nice view of all the colorful houses

Gorgeous George: The cocktail was great, and dinner was really good, but the service was soooo sloooow.  This may be a Cape Town thing, but it took forever!

Yours Truly: Nice and casual, order at the counter restaurant with huge salads.  They had the best kombucha ever- African rose made from rooibos tea. SO good!

Today & Tomorrow: Same owners as Yours Truly, with a bigger menu and table service.  Same delicious kombucha though!

Truth Coffee Roasting: Very unique space with excellent breakfast and coffee fuel before road tripping

Here are a few I wished we had hit:

Raptor Room: Wanted to go to the Dino-themed spot, but they were closed the days we were in town

The Company’s Garden:Cafe in a little park!

Shortmarket Club: A fancy pants dinner spot if you get a reservation

Commissary: The more casual, small plates sibling to Shortmarket Club

Old Biscuit Mill: It’s off the beaten path, but may be worth the trip to Woodstock when the Neighbourhoods Market is open on Saturdays.

WHERE TO STAY:

The Gorgeous George: We didn’t make it to the hotel until 10pm, and the signage was really hard to find.  Thankfully, our Uber driver was awesome and parked the car and walked with us to find it.  We said that wasn’t necessary, but he indicated it wasn’t safe to wander looking lost.  He said he’d feel terrible if something happened to us on his watch.  The hotel is still pretty new, so it had a few hiccups, but overall, would recommend staying there.  It included free breakfast, but we missed it due to our hike and early departure for the airport.

Airbnb view

Airbnb: Research neighborhoods before you commit.  The properties were all very reasonably priced.  We ended up staying in The Four Seasons Apartment, and again, signage was horrible trying to find it.  Also, this is not the actual Four Seasons by any stretch of the imagination, but it did the job and had a rooftop gym!  It was located in the central business district (CBD signs everywhere- I was thinking of a different CBD the whole time…).  While it is, in fact, centrally located, I would probably stay off of Kloof Street or even by the water in Cape Town if I did it again.  Ubers are so cheap, so why not stay in a nicer, safer, area and then Uber to your destinations for a mere $1 or $2?

TRANSPORTATION:

Uber is SO cheap.  Like $1-$3 a ride.  We walked around during the day, but at night we Ubered to dinner.  On the back end of our trip, we rented a car.  Keep in mind that you drive on the opposite side of the road.  That took a little while getting used to (I speak as a passenger).  Also, be aware of pedestrians on the highway.  Yes, on the highway.  We saw people walking along the road and through the merge lanes onto the highway, so be on high alert!  Gas stations have attendants you handle filling up and payment right at the car (the one we went to accepted credit cards, but tip the attendant in cash).  If you are driving, make sure you’ve got directions.  You don’t want to get lost in the townships, which is the most unsafe part of Cape Town and surrounding areas.  As for flights, we did Dulles to Minneapolis to Amsterdam to Cape Town.  There was a flight without Minneapolis, but it was way more expensive.  Coming back, we were able to do Cape Town to Amsterdam (11.5 hours) to Dulles (8ish hours).  It was a really long journey, but time change was only 6 hours.  Funny story:  Cape Town is the 6th busiest airport in all of Africa and Steve shut down their security system.  The airport was pretty much empty when we arrived for our late night flight, so there was no line for security.  Steve was swinging his bag around to go on the security belt, and all of a sudden the conveyer stopped and lights went out.  Turns out he bumped the on/off switch for the whole system…. How secure!  Good thing there wasn’t a line behind us. 

TIPS:

I’m glad we started our trip with the hike.  It gave me the chance to ask a local for tips. I peppered the guide with all my questions about Cape Town safety, the best neighborhoods, and what life is like for residents of Cape Town.  She was very candid about safety concerns and the still-fresh aftermath of apartheid.

Safety: Just like anywhere else, don’t flash valuables around and be aware of your surroundings.  We were told to not walk after dark and take Uber even if it’s a few blocks.  Don’t drive through the townships as poverty and opportunistic crime is high.  On a map, look for ‘Cape Flats’ to see areas to avoid.  It’s terribly sad that over 20% of the population lives in shacks; the effects of Apartheid are very apparent and painful to see firsthand.  

Did I mention you can drink the water?  What a huge bonus!  We were reminded everywhere we went about the recent drought, which made us much more aware of our water usage.  Some restrooms didn’t even offer soap- just hand sanitizer to conserve water.  Our guide on the hike said there were HUGE fees if you exceeded your permitted water usage at home.

Language: There are 11 official languages in South Africa.  English is widely spoken, as is Afrikaans, a language with Dutch roots and some German influence.  We learned one thing in Afrikaans- baie dankie aka buy a donkey aka thank you.  

Currency: South African Rand.  I took out some cash from the ATM, but mostly used credit cards.  For restaurants, be sure to add tip before they run your credit card unless you are carrying cash.  The hike guide accepted USD at the current exchange rate, which was super helpful since we hadn’t made it to the ATM yet to get out rands yet.

Check out my recap on our safari in Hoedspruit here, and side trips from Cape Town!

Map of all my recs here: