Whoa whoa whoa! It has been way too long since I’ve had any content to post here. 2020 has been a YEAR and it’s still not over. While I should be writing about Seattle, Denver, Venice, Florence, Rome, and the Amalfi Coast, instead you get the Eastern Shore of Maryland. We sulked and grumbled about the summer that wasn’t but in all reality, we made the most of it. We spent plenty of time in the Finger Lakes of NY with family, and visiting my best friend in Cleveland on their boat. But still, how could we close out the summer without a “real” vacation??
As many of you know, our dog has a more active social life than most people. One of his dog buddies went to St. Michael’s, Maryland, and it looked amazing. S/O to Rothko for the rec! So, we booked the next available weekend, which turned out to be end of September.
We drove out to Maryland on a Thursday night, just in time for dinner. One pandemic plus: less traffic! We checked into our Airbnb and then headed right back out for food.
WHERE TO EAT:
Theo’s Steakhouse: It is on the nicer side, but still casual enough. They have a front patio and back outdoor tent with a fire table to stay warm. Magic enjoyed a small bite of my steak, which I immediately regretted after remembering his sensitive stomach. That was a big mess to clean up back at the Airbnb…
Ava’s Pizzeria: Related to Theo’s and right next store, Ava’s has pizza, salads, sandwiches, and full entrees. They have a few tables out front, to the side, and a back area that had a roof but open walls. Again, Magic accompanied us and enjoyed the finest Eastern shore Maryland water, no snacks this time!
Limoncello: This Italian spot came highly recommended, but the wait for an outdoor table was 4 hours. This was surprising, since we arrived at 4:45, thinking no one else would be out yet. Shockingly, places were packed by 5pm. Make a reservation if you have your stomach set on a particular spot.
Gina’s Cafe: This little spot could easily be missed if you blink. It is at the end of the main drag, with a tiny inside and a sizable covered back patio. They have nachos, tacos, and drinks. If the tacos were gluten free, we definitely would’ve stopped here.
Awful Arthur’s: I can’t believe how different this Awful Arthur’s is from others in the regional chain. I’ve been to one in Roanoke for work, and this one is the complete opposite. They have a lovely outdoor patio and front porch seating. If you like seafood, this is your spot.
Eat Sprout: Great spot to grab healthy food to go. They are only open 8-4, but worth a stop for their seasonal nitro cold brew, acai bowls, or smoothies. The prepared food is pricey, though.
The Blue Crab: Small coffee shop tucked away off the main street. When we visited, I believe it was carryout only.
Blue Heron Coffee: Another small coffee spot with a few tables outside toward the end of the Talbot St. strip.
Agave Arts: I wanted to try their fresh pressed juice, but they had very limited hours.
The Galley: It is an old bank building with a big wrap around patio, ideal for the drizzly morning weather we encountered. It is a busy breakfast/brunch place, but slowed down in the evening.
Gluten Free Girl Bakery: They had gluten free vegan apple cider donuts! Wow, I am so high maintenance. You can order ahead and pick up at their window, or make an impulse purchase at the walk-up window while supplies last. I regret not getting more to bring back home, but they were not open on Sunday morning. But also, why do I have to go to Maryland to get the best gluten-free goodies? D.C., take note!
Hammy’s: This is also related to Theo’s and Ava’s. It definitely looked like a dive bar, but had a great back patio with umbrellas and fire pits (again, caught in a drizzle). They had no problem with Magic trotting through the bar to get to the patio.
Bistro: We had brunch reservations here that I was so excited about! I had already picked out what I wanted and was dreaming of my chorizo hash bowl. Please tell me I’m not the only person who goes in knowing what they want after looking online?! The plan was to eat then hit the road back to D.C. Well, our car had other plans. The low tire pressure alert came on as we were heading to the restaurant. We stopped to get air and heard a hissing sound. Not good. So, we high-tailed it home hungry and worried we may not make it. Long story short, it held up fine and we forgot about it…until I was starting my drive way out in Virginia this past weekend and the alert came back on.
WHAT TO DO:
Steve had to work Friday morning, so I drove into town to get said donuts and stroll the streets. I could’ve spent hours just wandering up and down the residential streets admiring the historic homes. Many were decorated for fall, including the numerous bed and breakfasts near the water.
Muskrat Park: After picking up the donuts, I walked down to the harbor and found a bench to eat and enjoy the peace and quiet of the water. The following evening, we walked by after dinner and listened to live music that was coming from Foxy’s from our socially distanced park bench.
Farmers Market: On Saturdays from 8:30-11:30am, there is a market. It was drizzling on the Saturday we were visiting, so we decided to skip, but I saw a local distillery giving samples, along with the fruits, veggies, flowers, etc.
Inn at Perry Cabin: One thing I wanted to do, but we didn’t make it to. This is the filming site of Wedding Crashers. The grounds are absolutely stunning (from afar). Our Airbnb host suggested going early and grabbing a drink to enjoy in their Adirondack chairs by the water. Also, dog friendly! They had a really unique restaurant set-up for COVID; you rent a glass house for the evening to enjoy dinner in. The deposit (just to reserve it) was $500!!!! That does not include food or drink. That’s a big NO WAY. But it looked like an amazing experience!
Maritime Museum: 99% of the museum is outside. It is dog friendly, too! Magic was treated to his own water bowl and treats at the ticket booth. The grounds include the Hooper Strait Lighthouse, a shipyard where they are recreating a historic boat, and many more exhibits. You can actually see the beautiful front lawn of the Inn at Perry Cabin from the museum grounds, in case you don’t make it there to see it up close. The museum also runs a charity boat donation program where donated boats are sold to the public, with profits put into community programming. Win-win! I would really like a boat, but I keep asking for one for Christmas and it hasn’t happened yet. You can get a discount on tickets if you show receipts from small business in St. Michaels, plus admission is good for two days.
Oxford-Bellevue Ferry: There is a ferry (dog friendly, I believe!) that takes you over to Oxford, Maryland, another quaint Eastern shore town. When I was researching what to do there, I found Capsize OXMD, a seasonal restaurant with a dog menu! They are now closed for the season.
Tilghman Island: Just a little further outside of St. Michael’s, with boat rentals and charters, a few restaurants and an old country store.
Shopping: There are a number of cute shops on Talbot Street. I wanted to stop in The Christmas Shop and look for a chow chow ornament, but Steve insisted we don’t need one. Rude. When I was in town solo, I stopped in Pemberton Pharmacy, an old time-y real pharmacy that is part gift shop. I found a fun little birthday gift there. Another fun spot was The Preppy Redneck- as the name implies. They were like a Vineyard Vines with a camo-flair.. If you are into searching for hidden treasures, I hear Antiques On Talbot is worth a visit, too.
Chartering a boat is another great idea, if the weather permits. It did not for us.
WHERE TO STAY:
There are some really cute looking bed and breakfasts near the water in St. Michaels, and the Inn at Perry Cabin is supposed to be top-notch, but very pricey. There are some more reasonable accommodations in Tilghman Island as another option. As mentioned, we went with an Airbnb that our dog friends stayed in. If anyone has tried to find a nice Airbnb that allows pets, you know the struggle. We found that out the hard way in our West Virginia and Maryland adventure! This was a gem, with a an outdoor pool, private dock, kayaks, and more. It was a short drive into town (5 or so minutes), giving us the perfect balance of seclusion and amenities nearby. The property itself was quite large, and Magic thoroughly enjoyed getting covered in mud and chasing rabbits. The house had a loft bedroom, full kitchen, and a nice outdoor fire pit that also had a grill rack for cooking on. The hosts left honey made from their bees, along with snacks and s’more materials! I bet this place is even better in the summer when it’s warm enough to swim and paddle around.
TIPS:
St. Michael’s, Maryland is very compact. If you walk down and around Talbot Street, you will see pretty much everything. I think a long weekend is the perfect stay.
Almost everywhere is dog-friendly! If you aren’t sure, just ask. They will probably welcome you in.
It was possible, even in the cooler, damp weather, to eat all our meals outside (and with Magic). We felt safe and distanced from other diners, with plenty of sanitizing and mask-wearing when not eating.
People like the early bird special here! My kind of people. Get out early for dinner if you don’t want to wait for a seat.
If you need more ideas for DMV getaways, click here for recaps of quick trips in Maryland and Virginia.
