LISBON- PART 2!

This summer kicked off with a road trip across Portugal and Spain, with a quick pit stop in Lisbon on either end of the trip.  Lisbon was the cheapest place to fly into, and also happens to be Steve’s current favorite city.

After landing and attempting to acquire the correct adapter, we got a rental car and hit the road.  It’s a short 15 minute drive from the airport to the city.     We navigated the narrow streets and headed to a great little coffee shop, Hello, Kristof.  Following an overnight flight, coffee was the first order of business.  We also had acai and granola bowls.

After fueling up, we hit the streets to stretch our legs and get some fresh air.  One of my favorite things about Lisbon is the street art.  There’s endless variety in colorful tiles around every corner.

Of course, a continuation of doors around the world photo series.  I’m partial to doors that look like they are meant for elves.

love this storefront!

 Before hopping back in the car, we got a smoothie for the road from Yao Pressed Juicery and headed to the next destination.  More on those stops to come!

 Cats around the world, the other ongoing photo series.  Not nearly as many cats here as in Myanmar or Turkey though.

  

After our road trip through Evora, Cordoba, and Seville, we drove back to Lisbon the night before our flight.  The weather was absolutely perfect, so we strolled down to the Time Out Market (yes, we went there last year, but it was so good we went back!).  Fig and prosciutto salad was a winner.

We made our way down to the water and had coffee at Montana Shop, a hybrid cafe and art supply store.  Live music and outdoor bars line the waterfront, and they were all pretty lively for a Sunday night!

sand dog and kitties

The next morning we hit The Mill for breakfast: smoothie bowls, granola, and coffee.  They are a cafe by day, wine bar by night.  Then it was sadly time to hit the road to the airport.  How random is this: a woman at breakfast ended up sitting right in front of me on the plane.

This time, we stayed in the Madragoa neighborhood, which felt very authentic and off the tourist track.  It wasn’t too far of a walk to the water, either.

After 3 separate times in Lisbon in the past year, I can definitively say it is one of the best spots to see in Europe right now.  It’s the perfect mix of city, waterfront and history, with a laid back vibe and reasonable prices.  Stay tuned for a recap of the rest of our adventure!

SINTRA, PORTUGAL

We took a quick day trip to Sintra, about an hour from Lisbon by train.  It was beautiful with so much to see!

With just one day to explore, we focused on one attraction, but could have easily spent another day exploring other castles.

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SIGHTS TO SEE:

After hiking up what felt like a mountain, we arrived at Quinta da Regaleira, our destination of choice in Sintra.  It was built in 1910 and has since expanded to include a palace, chapel, extensive grounds with underground tunnels, the initiatic well, and grottoes.  There is an entry fee of 6 euros for adults.img_5975The palace itself was elaborate, but the grounds were far more impressive.  img_5936 The underground tunnel network connects the grotto to the initiatic well, the chapel, and lake.  The tunnels were pitch black, so the parts with lighting were a welcome change!  It felt more like a maze, and you never knew where you might end up.img_5938 img_5939After finally finding the light at the end of the tunnel, we were rewarded with the grotto!After that, we went back into the mystery series of tunnels and popped up at one of the two initiatic wells.  The exact use of these wells are a mystery, but are said to be used in some sort of initiation rites.img_6011

The view of the unfinished well from the bottom
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Other sites to see in Sintra include National Palace of Sintra, Castelo dos Mouros, and the Park and National Palace of Pena.

 

WHERE TO EAT:

Cafe Saudade is the cutest little cafe close to the train station.  They have indoor and outdoor seating with coffee and hearty breakfast/lunch options.

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TRANSPORTATION:

There is a regional train that services Sintra, departing from Rossio train station in Lisbon.  Go early in the morning to maximize your time in Sintra, and also to avoid long lines to purchase train tickets.  We encountered a mass of people when we arrived and barely made the train.

Once we got to Sintra, we hooved it.  It was extremely hilly, so comfortable shoes are key.  We checked the Uber app, and there were a few cars, but not many.  Just plan on getting in your cardio!  Plus, you’ll get to enjoy the hidden treasures along the walk.

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Missed part 1?  Read about Lisbon here.  Stay tuned for part 3: The Algarve!

LISBON, PORTUGAL

Our summer vacation for 2016 was to Portugal.  We started and finished in Lisbon, with a trip to the Algarve for beach time in between.

Up first: Lisbon!  The city has a laid back, relaxed vibe and is full of bright colors, street art, and hidden treasures.

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SIGHTS TO SEE:

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One of the many beautiful churches

Bairro Alto is a lively neighborhood built on a big hill, full of bars and restaurants that spill over onto the stairs.

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img_6355img_5806Check out one of the scenic overlooks to get a great view of the city.

img_5812All the street art!

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Castelo de Sao Jorge: The castle grounds boast a beautiful overlook of the city.  Get there early to avoid massive crowds and the heat of mid-day summer sun.

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Castle peacock

The area surrounding the castle has some interesting art installations.

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The Sexiest Wash Closet on Earth

The Sexiest Wash Closet On Earth:  Really, it is just a nice restroom with a rainbow wall of papers to choose from before going…but if you have to go, it is worth it!  It is located in the Praça do Comércio.

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Praça do Comércio

LX Factory, located near the water in an area called Alcântara, is a former manufacturing plant transformed into artist studios, restaurants, and boutiques.

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Ler Devagar bookstore

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LX Factory

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Just past LX Factory is a cute little waterfront area.  We took an afternoon break for popsicles on their deck at UAU.

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UAU
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The view from the waterfront

WHAT TO BUY:

Pick up some beautiful handpainted tiles as souvenirs.  Sardines are also a hot item here.  They come packed in a rainbow of colored tins.

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WHERE TO EAT:

El Clandestino: Mexican restaurant located in Bairro Alto

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Quase Cafe:  Hidden gem alert!  We stumbled upon this little spot on our way to the castle.  They have a full menu, but we opted for some refreshing and filling smoothies.

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TimeOut Market Lisboa: A big part of travel is finding good food.  TimeOut Market has something for everybody.  The goat cheese ice cream salad was out of this world!  A really odd combo, but AMAZING!

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TimeOut Market Lisboa
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Salad with warm goat cheese topped with GOAT CHEESE ICE CREAM!

Cantina LX: Eclectic Mexican restaurant with outdoor seating, located inside the LX Factory

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Cantina LX

Café na Fábrica – Lx Factory: Sandwiches, salads, coffee and free wifi, also located in the LX Factory

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Café na Fábrica – Lx Factory
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Tiny cafe outside our AirBnB in Mouraria
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tapas bar with massive cheese spread

Pharmacia: This apothecary themed restaurant has outdoor dining as well as an outdoor lounge complete with a D.J. and blankets for chillier evenings.

WHERE TO STAY:

We had great experiences staying in 2 different AirBnBs on the front and back end of our trip.  The first was located in Alfama.  Our host welcomed us with coffee and sat down to chat about the city and his experiences.  As a Parisian with an interior design business, he moved to Lisbon for a slower pace of life at a fraction of the cost of Paris.  Real estate is very reasonable, and his AirBnB has been almost completely booked since he started renting it out.

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AirBnB balcony

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streets of Alfama

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Mouraria

The second was in Mouraria, which is the home of Fado, a traditional Portuguese style of music.  The sad sounding music could be heard floating through the streets. A charming cafe with outdoor seating was a few steps outside the door of our AirBnB.

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A local artist photographed elderly residents of Mouraria and created an outdoor exhibit along one of the narrow streets.  My favorite is the cat dad!

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longtime Mouraria resident

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TRANSPORTATION:

The airport is less than 15 minutes from the city, which is connected to public transportation and easily accessible by car.

Ubers are super cheap, but as always, walking allows you to see so much more.

Keep in mind that Lisbon is very hilly, and the sidewalks are slick from the stones being worn down.  You could also take the trolley around if you don’t want to hike up the big hills.

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Stay tuned for part 2: The Algarve, and part 3: Sintra.

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