CHARLESTON FOOD AND DRINK

Are you an eat to live, or live to eat type?  i am 100% in it for the food.  So much so, that I spend the majority of travel planning mapping out our meals and coffee breaks.  So, here is part one of our Charleston trip, AKA all the restaurants.  Part 2 of everything we did between meals to come.

To note: This was my first adventure with a real camera.  I am still not sure how to use it, but my first “homework” assignment from my wonderful professional photographer friend (and teacher) was to shoot only in manual during the trip.  There are a mix of iPhone and un-edited real camera pics here.  You be the judge of what’s what!

THE FOOD:

Lewis BBQ:  Our first meal was a big old plate of meat.  According to the Uber drivers of Charleston, the best bqq is a hot topic!  Lewis is apparently Texas style, and Rodney Scott’s is more authentic to Charleston, where they smoke ‘whole hog’.  Home Team BBQ was NOT recommended.

Huriyali:  Acai bowls, smoothies, healthy eats, plus a picture-perfect patio.  Great, healthy start to balance out the meats.

huriyali charleston

huriyali charleston
loving this wallpaper!
huriyali charleston
Obviously, we made friends with the dog.  Perhaps Steve tasted like acai.

huriyali charleston huriyali charleston huriyali charleston huriyali charlestonhuriyali charleston huriyali charleston huriyali charlestonhuriyali charleston

Five Loaves Juice Bar and Cafe: As with most trips, I make us walk everywhere.  We were starting to get a little warm (aka dripping with sweat by 10:30am), so we made a pit stop at this juice/smoothie bar.  Hit.the.spot.

Queen Street Grocery:  Gluten-free savory crepes for lunch!  And more canine friends.  I mean, look at that smile!

Xiao Bao Biscuit:  “Authentically inspired Asian comfort food and classic Southern cuisine” inside what looks like a former auto shop.  Spicy and really delicious!

xiao bao biscuit charleston Sugar Bakeshop:  I heard great things about this tiny little bakery, but sadly it was closed for the holiday weekend.

Husk:  The #1 spot everyone talks about in Charleston.  Maybe it is overrated for dinner (considering the months-long wait to get reservations), but we walked right in to their bar and enjoyed wine on the patio.  I appreciate outdoor seating that has fans.  It made 80 degrees and heavy humidity seem bearable.

Harold’s Cabin:  Our AirBnB host suggested this spot, and I am so glad she did!  I didn’t read about it anywhere else.  The location is off the beaten path, but was pretty close to where we were staying.  I imagine it is a really cozy spot for brunch or reading with a hot cup of coffee, too.

Inside has a log cabin, rustic feel.  The food was spectacular, especially the vegan “charcuterie” board.  The chef makes up a selection of the veggies in season from their rooftop garden.  I’d easily trade in a meat and cheese board for this selection any day!

Pancito and Lefty:  The forecast called for rain the entire time we were in town, but we lucked out and it didn’t pour until our last night.  We decided to walk to dinner, which was ambitious considering the deluge of rain.  We arrived to dinner sopping wet and ready to eat.  Corn tortilla tacos, yess!  The guacamole was really good, too.

Other spots that were highly recommended:

Butcher and Bee, Park Cafe, Hominy Grill, Poogan’s Porch, The Daily, Workshop, Le Farfalle, Stella’s, FIG, Raw 167, Chez Nous, Leon’s Oyster Shop, Little Jack’s Tavern, Cannon Green, Zero George, Basic Kitchen, Taco Boy, Mercantile and Mash.  Even more ideas on the map at the bottom!

THE COFFEE:

Second State Coffee:  This bright, little coffee shop is a short walk off King Street.  After a toasty day pounding the pavement, an iced peppermint rooibos tea did the trick.

Rise Coffee: Tucked into the Restoration Hotel, this tiny spot packs a lot of punch.  Rosemary Rise below– iced coffee with almond milk and rosemary simple syrup.  Simply divine!  There are a few seats in the coffee shop, comfy couches just inside the hotel entrance, and ample seating outside.

Miller’s All Day: After spending hours walking around (sense a theme here?), we needed a little rest and strong a/c.  Miller’s All Day has a mean cold brew, comfy couch, and insta-worthy decor.

Harbinger Cafe: By far, my favorite coffee shop of the weekend.  Gluten-free bread that actually tastes good, hooray!  I grabbed a ‘Jam Sesh’ to go.  As their website says, it is tahini, chocolate chunks, and house-made jam “like a coffee cake with the virtue of a granola bar” both vegan and gluten-free.  Sounds healthy-ish, I will take it!

Other coffee suggestions:

Caviar and Bananas, Gnome Cafe, Kudu Coffee, Revelator, The Bearded Cafe, plus more on the map below.

And with that, I am actually off to Charleston again today for work.  Part 2 of Charleston HERE!

FALLINGWATER, PENNSYLVANIA

fallingwater pennsylvaniaAs my staycation draws to a close, I realized I have done very few things on my never ending to-do list around the house.  What I did do was visit new coffee shops, cook, bake, spend A LOT of time at the ice rink, and visit my very best friend in Cleveland! I only had a few days to plan my time off, so I couldn’t go anywhere far, but I had somewhere in mind en route to Ohio.  For years, I have been wanting to visit Fallingwater, the iconic Frank Lloyd Wright designed property in Mill Run, Pennsylvania.  I mean, Smithsonian named it on their “Life List of 28 places to visit before you die”.  Check!  Now I am up to six.  I have my work cut out for me!

fallingwater pennsylvaniaI have visited some of Wright’s other projects, including the Pope Leighey House in Alexandria, Virginia as well as the Martin House in Buffalo, New York, but those don’t hold a candle to Fallingwater!

fallingwater pennsylvaniaThe house is in the middle of nowhere, about 3.5 hours from D.C.  For the directionally challenged, please note cell service is slim to non-existent, so plan out your directions before you go into the dead zone.  I arrived with a few minutes to spare before my 10am tour, so I strolled the grounds and found the scenic photo opp of the house.  The tour actually ends near this lookout, so if you don’t have time beforehand, know that you’ll get a chance at the end to see this view.

fallingwater pennsylvaniaI joined 4 other retired couples on the hour long guided tour.  Do I ever have to go back to work?  I’m really good at living that retired life already…

fallingwater pennsylvaniaThe house was built for the Kaufmann family, who founded Kaufmann’s department store in 1871 in Pittsburgh.  I totally forgot about that store, but apparently it was acquired by Macy’s in 2006 and subsequently closed.  Anywho, Edgar and Liliane Kaufmann had a son, Edgar Jr. who studied as an apprentice under Frank Lloyd Wright.  When Edgar and Liliane came to visit Edgar Jr. during the apprenticeship, they commissioned Wright to create a summer retreat home outside of Pittsburgh.  It took less than 2 years to create, and was completed in 1938.  The total expenditure was $155,000, which in modern day currency would be roughly $2.7 million.  Maybe I’m jaded by D.C. prices, but that seems like a pretty good deal for a main house, guest house, servant house, garage, and all furnishings.

fallingwater pennsylvaniaThe house is built around nature, boulders included.  Needless to say, this building style was way ahead of the times.  Fallingwater was, by far, the coolest architectual feat I have seen.  Kaufmann’s vision was to have the home looking out at the falls, but Wright had other plans.  He thought the house should be one with nature, and drew up plans to build on top of a waterfall.  The house was built using a cantilever system, meaning the house actually extends over the water without any external supports.

fallingwater pennsylvaniaAbove, you will see a set of floating stairs.  Just past the stairs is the waterfall.  Hidden from view is a second staircase on the right, with access to the water behind the retaining wall.  It is said that the Kaufmann’s would plunge into that frigid water as a way to wake up in the morning.  Brr!

fallingwater pennsylvaniaThe interior is very mid-century modern, again before its time!  Every bedroom has a private terrace, fireplace, and bathroom.  Notable guests of the Kaufmann’s included artist Diego Rivera and his wife Frida Kahlo, as well as Albert Einstein.  Original works from Rivera and other prominent artists of the time are found throughout the property.

fallingwater pennsylvaniaThe guest house also has an outdoor pool that uses fresh water from nature.  It cycles in and out of the pool, so it does not need to be chemically treated. No pictures are permitted inside the house with the standard tours, so you’ll just need to go see for yourself.

fallingwater pennsylvaniaFallingwater remained in the family until 1963, when Edgar Jr. donated it and the 1500 acres known as Bear Run to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy with the promise that it would be maintained and open as a museum.  There is so much more to say about the property, but you must take a tour to get the full experience.

TIPS:

I suggest buying tickets online, since they do sell out.  The tour groups don’t necessarily leave on time, so plan accordingly and allow an extra hour.  If you time it right, they have some really cool events like tours followed by a terrace brunch or happy hour.

Download your maps before heading out to the deep unknown of Western Pennsylvania.

If you want lunch, stop through Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania, less than 10 minutes from Fallingwater.  It is a small town right on the water with a cute general store and a few little restaurants.  It was pretty dead when I was there, but I think it is more of a summer spot with whitewater rafting and other watersports.

  Falls Market General Store

fallingwater pennsylvania fallingwater pennsylvaniaOhiopyle Bakery and Sandwich Shop

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dog friendly!

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Until the next adventure!

MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Amazing wine, food, beautiful landscape, and dogs.  Possibly rabid dogs.  What would a trip be without some mis-adventure?  Here goes the final installment of Argentina 2017.

After stopping through Buenos Aires for a day thanks to our flight delay, we flew to Mendoza.  Upon landing, we saw the breathtaking view of the Andes Mountains.  SO beautiful!  After a quick cab ride to the city of Mendoza, we stopped for a quick breakfast at BRÖD.  They have the cutest little terrace and solid food and drink choices.

Fueled and ready to start our wine country fun, we walked over to the rental car office.  I was slightly nervous that they would be out of automatics, despite our request.  Steve did assure me he could learn how to drive stick while on the trip, since it wasn’t our car to ruin.  He must’ve forgotten about the safety of everyone else on the roads, not to mention some of the literal cliff hangers we were about to drive on.  I think we both breathed a deep sigh of relief when the car came out of the garage and was a nice little automatic. Ok, food, coffee, and car accomplished.  On to the hotel!  We stayed at Club Tapiz, about 10 minutes outside of the city.  The rooms are located on the grounds of a winery, along with a farm, greenhouse, and a plethora of animals.  The hotel had all the essentials: free (really good) breakfast, a lovely pool, and happy hour.  I was most excited about the dogs!  How fun!  Just like home, I can be greeted by a furry face that wants belly rubs!  You can see where this is going.

the greeting committee

After settling into the hotel,  it was almost time to being our wine-soaked adventures!  There are so.many.wineries to choose from.  I highly suggest you do your research before you arrive, since most places require reservations to do a tasting.  We decided to start at Bodega Lagarde, a winery closer to the city of Mendoza.  We opted for a tour followed by a lunch paired with wine, which was set outside next to the vines.  The food was out of this world.  The wine was bottomless.  The only down side?  Realizing we would be wearing a bathing suit after feasting. UGH.  After we rolled ourselves home following the 4 hour excursion, we found out that our friend is friends with the family that owns the winery!  Small world.

  All the food was amazing, and they kept topping off our glasses. Whoa!  The tour was very informative, too. After our first winery in Mendoza, we realized we needed to get a better game plan, and perhaps more elasticized waistbands.  We skipped dinner after our epic lunch, which was a very smart choice.  The following day we hiked Aconcagua, which made me feel a little better about the wine and food extravaganza.  We finished the hike day off with dinner at the hotel, which also had fantastic food and wine.  I was set on finding their wine back home, and come to find out, it is only sold at Costco.  Does that take away from the excitement of finding a good wine?  Or should I be pleased about getting a good deal on a 1.75 liter bottle?

Now that we conquered a mountain, we could justify another indulgent day.  It started with the hamam spa at Entre Cielos.  Since we never went to a hamam spa in Istanbul, this was something I really wanted to do.  You go between rooms of differing temperatures and humidity levels, with hot stones and a pool.  I think we sweat out all the wine in the process, and left refreshed and ready to tackle another winery.

At some point on this beautiful morning, I decided to get a pic of the beautiful Andes mountain range at our hotel.  I took a stroll down the dirt road next to the hotel’s pool, just like Steve and I did the night before, so I could get the best view.  Around the time I framed the mountains, a pack of angry dogs stormed me.  I turned away from them, but didn’t want to startle them by bolting.  The littlest dog had, quite literally, the biggest bite.  He nipped my leg in the frenzy.  Then they all calmed down and strolled off.  Well, dogs in Argentina aren’t the pampered pooches you find back home.  It was unclear whose dogs they were, and if they were vaccinated.  Never google ‘rabies vaccine window of time’ when in a foreign country.  NEVER!  Spoiler: I survived.  After a stressful few days, I was able to start the post exposure protocol after landing back in the U.S.  I also learned insurance is pretty much the worst system ever.

View of the Andes. Was the pic worth it? NOPE.

Ok, back to the trip.  We had lunch plans at Casa Enemigo.  This place was jam packed, even with 2 dining rooms and patio space.  There was a resident cat and dog to greet us, too!  The service was impeccable.  It was a little dangerous, since they never let your wine glass get below halfway!  Steve finished a full fish and they asked if he wanted a second… We tried wines produced by Casa Enemigo, plus some made by smaller producers.  The winner in our book was Finca Escuela and Manos Negras.  We searched high and low trying to locate all the wines we had in Mendoza with little luck.  In my search online, I stumbled on Grand Cata, a South American wine store in D.C.  They were amazing and found the importers for almost all of the wines and ordered them.  I cannot wait to have these bottles again and transport myself back to Mendoza and away from this winter weather!

obviously had to say hola to the winery cat

The dessert was a very weird texture, but tasted delightful.  After a translation fail, we finally figured out we were eating spaghetti squash.  Who knew you could make it into a sweet?

After indulgent lunch #2, we headed back to the hotel for pool time.  We had reservations at Bodega Gimenez Riili, a small restaurant/winery in the Uco Valley that evening.  We were both pretty full still, but I really wanted to see that region (about 1 hour South) and sample their wine.  The drive took us through a number of small towns and then into the country.

The winery itself is on the edge of The Vines Resort, but seems to be a separate entity.  The view itself was worth the drive.  The landscape was out of this world beautiful!  Sadly, the service did not compare.  80% of the restaurant guests left before the 3rd course was served, but what we did eat was delicious, and the wine was really good.  I feel really bad for the only server working, who admitted it was her first week on the job.

more winery dogs
this pic was way better than the dog-bite one…

 

WHERE TO EAT:

BRÖD: Perfect for brunch on the patio.

Maria Antonieta: Parisian bistro serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, with an outdoor patio.

NOOK: Healthy coffee/smoothie shop with a VW van half inside and half outside the cafe

El Mercadito Friendly and Fresh:  I think the name says it all.

Josefina:  We had dinner plans here, but were too stuffed from the first winery lunch to make it.

Anna Bistro:  The floral canopy over the patio looks so inviting!

Siete Fuegos:  Located a The Vines Resort in Uco Valley, they have received rave reviews.

WHERE TO STAY:

Club Tapiz was a great mid-range option.  However, if you are looking to splurge, definitely check out Cavas Wine Lodge , voted South America’s #1 hotel by Travel+Leisure, or Entre Cielos, a newer boutique luxury hotel.  If you are okay with staying further out (and spending an arm and a leg), look into Casa de Uco or The Vines Resort

THINGS TO DO:

Now, the main reason you go to Mendoza is for the wine.  Neither of us claim to be winos, and I don’t think I’ve ever met a wine I don’t like (except for a potentially rancid white, but even then I still drank some before my mom noticed it was bad?), BUT, sipping a delicious glass under the South American summer sun cannot be beat in December.

The highlights:

Bodega Lagarde

Casa Enemigo

Entre Cielos Hamam Spa

Bodega Gimenez Riili

Wineries that we didn’t make it to, but were on my list include:

Andeluna Cellars

Bodegas Salentein

O. Fournier Winery

Caserena

Terrazas de Los Andes

Susana Balbo

Bodega Renacer

Achaval Terrer

Trapiche

Luigi Bosca

If you’re all wined out, there are plenty of outdoorsy things to do, too.  You can read all about our day trip from Mendoza to Aconcagua here, which I  would highly recommend (along with more SPF)…. Another option is white water rafting from Uspallata to Potrerillos Dam.  If more low key is your thing, check out Cachueta Spa, natural hot springs just outside Mendoza.

In the city, check out Cerro de la Gloria, which offers a beautiful view of the city and a monument commemorating General San Martin’s army, who rode horseback across the Andres to free Chile from Peru.

Plaza Independencia is the center of town, surrounded by 4 smaller squares.

lots of sunbathing pups
street art in the city of Mendoza

TIPS:

I’ve tried getting local SIM cards, a limited international data plan for $25, and an unlimited plan for $10 a day, but I thought there must be a better option.  Enter the lovely retired gentleman I met on our flight from DC to Newark.  We spent the entire flight talking travel hacks, from the best lounges, doggy daycare while traveling, when to upgrade your seats, and phone plans.  He clued me in to T-Mobile’s plan, which allows you to keep your same phone number, has unlimited data, and FREE usage internationally!  All for less than Verizon and AT&T.  Hooray!  Problem solved.  We switched providers as soon as we got back, and collectively pay less than Steve was paying for just his phone line with AT&T.  So far, so good with service in the DMV.  New Year, new phone, new provider, new fridge, new inoculation….This fresh start is starting to get expensive!

You must make reservations for wine tastings, which seemed odd to me.  I am used to wineries that you can simply walk in to, and play your day by ear.  Not the case, but maybe for the best.  There is absolutely no way we could have done a full day of tastings.  The food was so filling, and wine pours extremely generous.

In the city of Mendoza, you must pay for street parking.  There are meter maids patrolling the streets that leave paper tickets on your windshield to keep track of how long you were parked there.  I was certain we were getting issued a parking ticket, but thankfully it was just their antiquated method of metered parking.  Bring cash to pay them!

On a practical note, gas stations have pump attendants who will dispense gas for you.

HOW TO GET THERE:

There are 2 airports in Buenos Aires; the international and the national airport.  We flew out of the national airport to get to Mendoza, but landed back in the international airport in Buenos Aires for some reason.  Flying is the way to go!  Driving would have wasted too much time on a short trip.

TRANSPORTATION:

Renting a car was the best decision we made.  The vineyards are spread all over the region, and to maximize how much ground we could cover, a car was critical.  We also would have had a harder time getting to Aconcagua and Uco Valley if we didn’t have a car.  An automatic was a little costly, but if you can drive stick, prices is very reasonable.  It was really nice to come and go as we pleased, but if you don’t want to spring for a car, there are options.   There are public buses, bicycle rentals, car services, and taxis to get around.

Here is a handy, interactive map of all the places we saw, or were recommended to do:

And that’s a wrap on Argentina 2017!