LONDON, ENGLAND

07.21.2019 by Passports and Provisions //

It seems like I was just in London. Oh wait, I was 2 weeks before this trip… Rewind a few months and Steve found out he would have a rare slow week in April, so we jumped at the chance for a getaway longer than a weekend. He really wanted to get back to London, and we found a good flight that got us to London (his choice)and Berlin (my choice). Then, I found out I’d be traveling to Scotland and Ireland for work right beforehand. Not one to pass up a trip, I embraced the hustle between trips so we could make it all happen. A vacation was much needed after the hectic month.

There’s plenty to see and do in London, but here’s my abbreviated version from our short time there.

WHERE TO EAT:

Twigs: Plant shop and lunch spot near Broadway Market

The Book Club: Very lively brunch spot on a Saturday with live music and a ping pong room!

Vida Bakery: Vegan/gluten-free bakery I got an oatmeal raisin cookies to save for later.

Lily Vanilli: Walk by quickly and you’ll miss it! This little bakery is tucked into a courtyard behind the flower market. Pink paint and a huge spread of sweets and coffee.

Smoking Goat: SO GOOD! This restaurant is based on late-night food found in Bangkok. Definitely crowded, but worth a short wait.

Borough Market: An overwhelming amount of food vendors here! It’s half outside, half covered with options for just about everything under the sun.

Broadway Market: On Saturdays, there is a neighborhood-y market selling everything from fruits, vegan nut cheese, kombucha stand, to street foods from around the world. You name it, they’ve got it, along with live music and an atmosphere that makes you want to linger for awhile.

Mare Street Market: If we had more time, this would’ve been my next meal.

WHAT TO DO:

Tate Modern: Edvard Munch exhibit with Scream was there, but we didn’t spring for the paid ticket.. On the other hand, we saw Monet’s water Lillies and an exhibit by Rothko…who one of Magic’s chow dog pals is named after. I picture Rothko the dog painting a masterpiece with a paintbrush between his teeth.

Tower Bridge: The weather turned real London-y and a light spritz if rain turned into wind and heavy rain while we were in the middle of Tower Bridge. Lovely. Regardless, it is a very impressive bridge with intricate detailing.

Boxpark Shoreditch: Boxcar? No space goes unused! Empty shipping containers line the street and each one has a little shop inside, and a few restaurants on the roof. Other highway underpasses have hidden restaurants and bars, so do some exploring to find hidden gems.

Columbia Road Flower Market was very close to our hotel. Imagine a whole market of fresh flowers and competing stall owners outdoing one another on prices, only on Sundays starting around 8am. If only I could’ve brought back a banana plant or giant orchid plant with me! I noticed some of the neighboring cafes were cash only, so keep that in mind.

Columbia Road was bustling with little boutique shops worth popping in for.

While we didn’t make it, everyone recommended we visit The Shard for a drink high in the sky.

Sky Garden: Dubbed as London’s highest public garden, it also offers a variety of dining options amongst the clouds.

Ballie Ballerson: An adult ball pit bar. Need I say more? Not saying this should be above a modern art museum on your to-do’s, but how often do you get to play as an adult?

While sorting through pictures on my computer, an old photo album from 2011 popped up. We were there prior to the 2012 Olympics and saw the countdown clock. Time sure does fly!

WHERE TO STAY:

Hoxton Shoreditch: I highly recommend this hotel. It includes free breakfast delivered to your room (yogurt, granola, banana and OJ), a restaurant and coffee shop in the lobby, plus plenty of space to hang out and enjoy one of their fireplaces. It seemed to be very popular with people working remotely, and then later in the evening having cocktails.

TIPS

Currency is the GBP £

The public transit system is easy to use. Get an oyster card and use it on the bus or tube. The remaining balance and refundable deposit on the card can be redeemed at the airport, FYI.

There are multiple airports. We flew into Heathrow, but out of Gatwick. Both were easily connected to public transportation.

People stay out LATE and drink heavy. Consider that when booking a hotel or Airbnb if you want to sleep at a reasonable hour!

Of course there are a million more ideas pinned on the map from coworker suggestions who live in the area, plus my own research. Here’s everything pinned:

The other part of our trip, Berlin, found here!

GLASGOW/GIRVAN, SCOTLAND

06.09.2019 by Passports and Provisions //

So much travel and so little time! I’m back for part 2 of the Ireland/Scotland work trip. Catch part one of the recap here. After visiting Ireland, we headed over to Scotland to visit our facilities in Girvan and Dufftown. We flew into Glasgow and stayed at The Dakota. Highly recommend! The breakfast and dinner were really delicious.

On day one in Scotland, we headed to one of our offices and met a member of the Grant family and nosed whisky with the company’s master blender. Very cool! I’ll save those pictures since I’m not sure if I am allowed to post pictures of our whisky library?? That evening, we had an evening with Drambuie in a really cute little restaurant, The Finnieston.

On the second day, we visited Girvan distillery to see how Grant’s whisky is made and then the Hendricks Gin Palace for gin fun. The scenery en route was beautiful!

Below is what the trees and buildings looks like at Girvan. It’s something in the air from distillation, but it looks like another world’s landscape.

It was so loud in the cooperage while they made barrels, I wasn’t sure what the cooper was saying. I imagine he’s praying that no one hurts themselves when he hands the hammer over to us to assemble a barrel for fun.

After touring Girvan, we did a little speed bartending competition. The results were embarrassing, and it’s clear I’ll never be a bartender! I think Will’s flare bartending/shaking made everyone a little nervous, ha!

Up next: the Hendrick’s Gin Palace, on the same property as Girvan distillery. It is pretty much the coolest distillery ever made.

We had the honor of spending the afternoon with Lesley Gracie, the master distiller and gin-ious! She led us on a tour of the new palace, teaching us all things Hendrick’s, and a tasting. She was hilarious with many stories of her adventures to craft the most unique spirits.

Lesley led us to her lab/office which has a cabinet of curiosities, full of unique botanicals and essences to test out.

We tasted through the deconstructed spirit with Lesley as well as the new Midsummer Solstice.

After a full education on how Hendrick’s is made, we had cocktails in the library while learning the history of gin.

For anyone in the industry, how bout that back bar??

The library also had costumes. What’s more fun than a Hendrick’s library with a bar? A Hendrick’s library with a bar that has costumes!

The palace has 2 greenhouses- one for tropical plants and one for Mediterranean plants. Lesley experiments with these plants for potential new spirits. How cool is that?

Even the stills have nice accommodations with a stained glass ceiling piece.

Every detail is Hendricks to a T. The rose and cucumber stained glass windows, hidden H’s in the floor and iron work, and quirky decor. Truly a most unusual palace for a most unusual gin. If you missed part one, here’s Dublin’s write up. Stay tuned for part 3 with Dufftown, Scotland.

BERLIN, GERMANY

05.12.2019 by Passports and Provisions //

Germany has been on my list for quite some time, but just kept getting overshadowed by other destinations.

Thoughts on Berlin:

Tons of street art, easy to navigate, spread-out city with great public transit, and a considerable homeless population and problem with drug addiction. Not really related, but I also found it odd seeing people at 9am sipping a beer…

We really lucked out with weather in Berlin. Perfectly sunny, warm enough to sit outside, but not overheat from walking around all day. I’m sure we could have spent at least another day hitting some key places, but back to reality we must go.

We got suggestions from a German co-worker, a friend who studied abroad, and someone who frequently visits, so we couldn’t possibly eat/drink/see it all. Don’t you worry though, all the recommendations are pinned to the map at the bottom! Here are the highlights of what we did do, or planned to squeeze in.

While exploring the city, I mad it my mission to find my maiden name, Feuerstein, somewhere. I was in luck!

WHAT TO DO:

I find that travel is the absolute best way to learn (or re-learn?) history. As a visual learner, it’s so much more interesting to see things I read about way back in school, but didn’t necessarily retain…

My Berlin history refresher began at the Berlin Wall Memorial. It’s hard to believe this happened in my lifetime.

The Brandenburg Gate: It was built in the late 1700’s to replace an existing city gate and is now one of the most recognizable German landmarks. The design is based on Propylaea, the gate to the Acropolis in Athens, Greece (read about our trip to Athens here!).

The gate has withstood the test of time. After being sprayed with bullets and damaged by explosions during WWII, only one horse head remained intact.

Berlin Cathedral: Our trip coincided with the fire at Notre Dame. I’m very grateful I had the opportunity to see it before, but it was a reminder to never stop exploring. Maybe some day I’ll dig up old photos from that trip to post on here, but it was so long ago I barely remember the details!

We arrived mid-way through a service, so we sat and soaked in the beauty. Incredible domes!

The Berlin Cathedral has a very, very long set of windy stairs to get to the top, but you’re rewarded with a panoramic view of the city.

East Side Gallery: This stretch of the original Berlin Wall is now an outdoor art gallery along the canal. A tourist kiosk does East and West Berlin passport stamps there, if you are into that.

Reichstag: This is where parliament meets. It was set on fire in 1933, then partially refurbished in the 60’s, but not fully restored until 1990. Book a ticket ahead of time and you can go inside the glass dome for a spectacular view of the city.

Just like in D.C., there was a protest going on.

Checkpoint Charlie: This was the most well-known crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. It’s smaller than I expected, and in the middle of the road that’s in use. It’s a touristy photo opportunity with a more educational piece across the street.

Alexanderplatz: This large square is home to the TV tower, known as Fernsehturm. The tower is the tallest structure in all of Germany, and was constructed in the 60’s as a symbol of communism.

There is a Holocaust museum, as well as memorial, with more information here.

Templehofer Feld: We ran out of time, but wanted to visit the old airport that closed in 2008, and is now used as a city park, and more recently to also house refugees.

If you’re tired of sightseeing, check out the area south of U Rosenthaler Platz for boutique shopping.

WHERE TO EAT:

Breakfast:

Daluma: Acai bowls, smoothies, all the health food trends. Good way to start the day!

My Goodness: This little spot does smoothies, coffee, and delicious bowls. It’s connected to a cycling studio with more seating options. Steve enjoyed the artisanal version of his normal oatmeal peanut butter banana slop.

I really wanted to try Roamers on our last morning, but they are cash only and I wasn’t equipped for that.

Coffee:

So many good options! Move over almond milk. Oat milk is having a moment in Berlin. I’m talking billboards in all the subway stations, baristas with oat milk shirts, and availability at every coffee shop we visited (many with no upcharge!).

Distrikt Coffee: Housed in an old building with exposed brick, comfy couches, communal tables, and great coffee.

Westberlin: Right down the street from Checkpoint Charlie, this coffee spot was full of laptops and ex-pats. The coffee shop is bright and modern with a little book shop in the back.

St. Oberholz: Part co-working space/part bar and coffee shop. Dog friendly inside!

Chapter One: It’s a neighborhood coffee shop near the Airbnb we stayed at known for their fancy coffee, but it is cash only. I wouldn’t make a special trip for it since it’s not near much else, but it hit the spot.

Funk You: Down the street from Commonground and tucked in between a number of fun little shops is this delightful coffee shop. Get the vegan/gluten-free Snickers bar and thank me later.

Lunch:

Hallesches Haus is hidden down an alley with outdoor seating and a sunny indoor space. They have both meat lovers and vegans covered. Connected to the cafe is a little boutique.

Commonground is a very hip restaurant/bar/coffee spot with an interior courtyard complete with a koi pond.

There are a number of food halls/markets, but we only made it to the local Marheineke Markthalle by our Airbnb before our flight. Markthalle IX was also recommended to us.

Dinner:

Cocolo Ramen: There are two locations, and we went to the one in Kreuzberg on the water. The line was out the door on a Tuesday night, but well worth the wait and the line moved quick. Get the homemade honey ginger lemonade!

Katz Orange: It was jam packed on a Monday night, but without reservations we were able to get a seat at the bar. Goose fat fries were certainly a treat I don’t normally indulge in, but well worth it. Great ambiance and beautiful patio for a warmer night. You could easily walk right by since it’s tucked away in a courtyard.

Other food suggestions: Brlo, Curry 36 for authentic currywurst, Kimchi Princess, or stroll down Kastanienallee and visit wine bars where you pay 1 euro for a glass on weekdays, drink to your heart’s content, and then you pay what you think it was worth.

TIPS:

Some places are cash only, so come prepared.

I felt completely safe, but do be aware of the people lingering in subway stations.

Germans don’t care if it’s a little cold. The sun is shining, so sit outside and wrap up in a blanket or order a hot drink! They really maximize patio time and I love it!

Free Wi-Fi is prevalent. T-Mobile free International data moves at a snail’s pace, but does work.

Some tourist bathrooms charge a fee. Be prepared with 50 cents!

It’s hard to say where to stay, since the city is so big. We were very pleased with our simple Airbnb by Kreuzberg. It was right next to a subway stop and in a quieter residential area. The price couldn’t be beat at 57 euros a night. No frills, but it did the job.

TRANSPORTATION:

Public transportstion system is excellent. A full day, unlimited day pass is 7 euros, and can be used in subway, bus, and tram. Trains run every 1-3 minutes. It’s almost like the honors system- buy a ticket, stick it in the validation machine and go. No turnstiles, no station guards, nothing. Only one time did we see a ticket checker step on to a train to scan tickets. Funny timing, as earlier the same day we overheard a British guy saying he owed a 60 € fee for not having the right ticket on him. So, be honest and get the proper ticket!

Also, dogs are allowed in the subway system. Dogs everywhere! Zero outdoor cat sightings.

We flew into Schoenefeld airport and out of Tegel, and it was very simple to get to and from on the bus/subway. Something I have never seen before: at Tegel, you can walk from outside and be at your gate in 30 seconds. You scan your passport and ticket at the actual boarding gate area, then proceed to security with only the people on your flight. It wasn’t the fanciest airport by any means, but we got to our gate in record time.

There are plenty of bike lanes and we spotted a number of bike share companies around.