NORTHERN PORTUGAL

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Wow, I completely forgot to finish recapping our trip to Portugal, but what a pleasant surprise when I logged in to do so and saw a draft saved! Needless to say, I only have half a brain left this holiday season. Anyway, moving on to recapping Northern Portugal!

We have visited quite a few places in Portugal, but this was our first time venturing North of the Douro Valley. Last summer, we met a couple in the Lisbon airport lounge when we were en route to Italy, and they were returning from Portugal. They raved about the national park and beauty of the countryside up North, so we decided right then and there to visit in 2023!

WHERE TO STAY:

Monverde Wine Experience Hotel: Once you leave Lisbon, there’s not much on the highway.  This resort if pretty far North, with nothing really notable that we saw in its vicinity.  That meant day trips and enjoying the resort restaurants with plenty of time to relax.  It also included a few pit stops to Lidl to get snacks.  Ask Quinn about how he set off the security system with the shopping basket…Luckily they saw it was 2 clueless Americans and continued on without batting an eye.

Back to the hotel details: we booked a room that said it had a private plunge pool, and our expectations were low.  My thought was it would be a place to take a dip during nap time, so we weren’t trapped in the room.  We were very pleasantly surprised that it was a sizable pool with a separate shallow end, perfect for Quinn to play in safely! 

The room had a living room partitioned off from the bedroom, so Quinn had his own space away from us to nap and sleep at night. The hotel had a pool for all guests to use, a lovely spa I took advantage of, and a duck pond next to their playground, which served as our daily entertainment after breakfast (which was included).  The ducklings were so cute! While we didn’t take advantage, the hotel offered numerous wine tasting packages both on-site and off-site on their winery property.

WHAT TO DO:

Douro Valley: Wine country isn’t too far away, and you can easily book tours with transportation to visit them. We went back in November 2019, not knowing the world was about to shut down, recap here if you want to explore the winery region.

Quinta da Aveleda: Instead of going back to the Douro Valley, we decided to visit Quinta da Aveleda, an estate in the Vinho Verde wine region. We booked a tour and picnic lunch, and it turned out to be a private tour. The guide was so sweet and made Quinn feel like a king. Everywhere we went in Portugal was so family friendly, including this estate/winery. We learned about the history of the family estate, explored the gardens, learned about their wine and brandy production and finished with a picnic in one of the gardens. They made an amazing gluten free spread upon request.

We had some uninvited guests, however, including free range chickens and peacocks. They wandered right over to see if they could sneak some snacks. I must say, seeing a peacock a foot away is a bit unsettling when they look you in the eye. To this day, every time a photo from this picnic pops up on our digital photo frame, Quinn reminds us how much he hates peacocks. I don’t blame him. I should note that is not wine he’s holding as he looks suspiciously at said peacock!

Coimbra: This small city, formerly the capital of Portugal, is home to the University of Coimbra. We used it as a pit stop on our way north, but thoroughly enjoyed a vegetarian and gluten free lunch at Greenside. The restaurant is very unassuming from the outside, but has a beautiful back patio and a super deal on lunch. The staff did not speak English, and our Portuguese is mostly incomprehensible, but they were very patient with us. After we sat down to eat, the owner appeared (who did speak English) and told us all the side trips to take and little known facts about the area. He sent us off with a list of places and full bellies.

Santiago de Compostela: This city in Northwest Spain is known is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the end point of the Camino de Santiago, a Catholic pilgrimage route. We got tickets far in advance to tour the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, but Steve wasn’t feeling great and wasn’t up for the almost 3 hour drive North and subsequent lengthy tour. We didn’t realize until returning home that it was COVID that plagued Quinn, then Steve, and finally me during our trip. It’s a good thing we decided to scrap that trip, because we didn’t realize there is an hour time change from Portugal to this part of Spain. I can only imagine driving 3 hours with a miserable pilot only to find out we missed our tour…So, don’t be like us. Check the time change, don’t get sick, and visit this incredible landmark!

Braga: The greater Braga region is the third most populated urban area in Portugal, after Lisbon and Porto. This fact was hard to believe when seeing the city in person, but I suppose if you count the surrounding areas, it makes sense. We went on a drizzly cold day, so we didn’t get to fully enjoy the city by wandering around. In fact, we weren’t even going to go here at all, but after the Spain debacle above, we decided to do a quick trip here instead. Of course, had we known Steve had COVID, we wouldn’t have done this, but hindsight is 20/20.

While in Braga, one must visit the cathedral, the oldest Portuguese archdiocese. Tickets are required, but it was only 2 euro to go inside. The organ was stunning, and the stained glass was beautiful.

There are a number of tiny restaurants tucked away on each little side street. We wandered around and found a cozy spot with live music and hot soup, just what what the doctor ordered.

After warming up, we trekked on to see Bom Jesus do Monte. It was drizzling and foggy, making the scenery all the more dramatic. I read somewhere it is known as the stairway to heaven, which was apt with the weather making the top of the stairs and church disappear into the sky.

Peneda-Gerês National Park: This is the only national park in Portugal, and it is really big- over 268 square miles. It differs from national parks I’ve seen in the U.S. in that people’s homes are on the park land, along with independent restaurants and other businesses. We could have spent quite a bit more time here, and I think it could be nice to get lodging and stay overnight. There was a body of water, the Caniçada dam, at the park entrance we took that has an inflatable water park! It looked so inviting in the heat that day. We saw some little bed and breakfasts and family homes as we approached our chosen waterfall hike. This was another long drive on stomach-churning windy roads up high, but was worth it. It was one extreme of weather to another- cold and rainy the day we went to Braga, and over 100 degrees in Peneda Gerês. We brought a backpack carrier for Quinn and hiked to the waterfalls.

Now there are multiple waterfalls in the park, but we chose the one that the travel bloggers posted about being the most safe and easy to get to, Cascata do Arado. We parked a reasonable distance away and walked on a dirt path most of the way. To note: there are no bathrooms, but there are some primitive water fountains. The scenery was beautiful and it was incredibly peaceful (albeit HOT). The base of this particular waterfall was filled with Portuguese families swimming and cooling off on such a hot day. We did not encounter any English speakers that day, so I feel like we had an authentic Portuguese summer experience!

If it wasn’t triple digit heat, I’d recommend finding the hot springs to relax in. I found information on the park to be lacking online, but there is a visitor center upon arrival with paper maps that might be more helpful. Most parts of the park are free to access, but there is a zone that is protected and charges admission.

If we had more time, I would’ve visited The Boulder House, a quirky house built into a rock. It just wasn’t close to anything else and we would rather lounge at the pool than do the drive.

TIPS

You’ll need a rental car to get around. We got one at the airport to keep it simple, but did this after our time in Lisbon. It’s so walkable there, a car would’ve been a pain to drive and park in the city. Here’s my latest recap of Lisbon. Until our next adventure!

LISBON- PART 3!

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Hello! It’s been awhile. But I say that every time I post now… But here we are, almost 3 months after our trip, finally recapping it. We try not to repeat destinations, but Lisbon is the shortest and cheapest direct flight to Europe in August (not to mention it is Steve’s favorite place). We used Lisbon has our starting and ending point, with a road trip North in between. After a somewhat traumatizing flight from Florence last summer, we were pretty nervous about bringing Quinn along this time, but he slept almost the whole way there! Having his own seat (and carseat) was a game changer.

A lot has changed since our last time in Lisbon, and it appears the secret is now out! Everyone and their mother went this summer, and it’s apparent- prices have gone up and it’s definitely more crowded than our first trip there. We arrived shortly after the Pope’s visit, so there may have been extra tourists still in town for that, too. Nonetheless, still a great destination!

WHERE TO EAT:

Fabrica Coffee Roasters: After our red-eye flight, the first order of business was COFFEE! They have many locations across the city, and I mapped the mileage-wise closest location. Halfway en-route, we realized it was also the hilliest route. So hilly that there is an escalator up one giant hill. Things you don’t notice until you are pushing a toddler in a stroller! Speaking of said toddler, Quinn was treated like royalty by the staff. They made him his own little “espresso” aka frothed milk and fawned over him in Portuguese. He was really excited to use his very basic Portuguese he’s learned at school with them. His only two phrases: Obrigado! Bom dia!

Time Out Market: With so many good food options in Lisbon, we somehow still ended up back at Time Out Market for a THIRD time (remember this goat cheese ice cream salad?). It’s similar to Union Market in D.C., but dare I say even more busy?! It does have a good amount of seating and a wide variety of food options. We walked down from our hotel the evening we landed in Lisbon to get some fresh air and move our legs. There’s something for everybody and it’s super casual.

Copenhagen Coffee Lab: They have locations in Denmark, Germany, France, and Portugal. I chose a location that was a bit further from our hotel, but it was a scenic route. Steve may beg to differ as he had to, yet again, handle the stroller and stairs up and down and back up and down again. They had a great breakfast deal for 12 euros- 2 types of bread and spreads, cheese, ham, a pastry, overnight oats, an egg, AND a drink. To note: not GF

The scenic route:

Tapas 52: On our first trip, we visited Tapas 52 and had this great cheese plate. We broke our own rule of not repeating places again, but sort of by accident. Someone Steve knows through work was visiting Lisbon at the same time as us, and he suggested we meet here. When we arrived, we thought it looked really familiar… What are the odds? This was day 2 in Lisbon and we were all a bit tired, but Quinn was so beat that he passed out in Steve’s friends arms.

Honest Greens: You may be sensing a theme here. We accidentally repeated another restaurant. When in Barcelona, we had the best hummus at Honest Greens, and stumbled upon a location next to the Time Out Market. Quinn protested the vast array of options at Time Out Market, but he was thrilled to get a smoothie and energy balls from here. Lots of healthy options in a fast casual environment.

Rebel Cafe: Trendy coffee shop right next to our hotel. Excellent chia seed pudding!

UAO Gelato: In the mood for a sweet treat? Vegan, and free of gluten, lactose and sugar, yet still has flavor. Since Quinn slept through tapas, we stopped here for a healthier treat. He requested “green” and enjoyed their pistachio flavor.

GROM Gelato: We ALMOST went here in Florence, but didn’t. So, it doesn’t count as a repeat! They are all gluten free. Quinn enjoyed their mango gelato and I snuck a lick- so good!

Go Natural: Certainly not a destination for foodies, but a grocery store in the heart of Lisbon that had a huge selection of gluten free items. Quinn still asks for Sharkies, but sadly I cannot find them stateside.

WHERE TO STAY:

Palacio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel: it is very walkable, with a beer garden across the street, right next to the iconic tram line and near plenty of restaurants and bars. The staff was so kind to Quinn, giving him coloring books and colored pencils, and running to help us with the stroller every time we came and went. They also left treats in the room and offered turn down service (but let’s be honest, we were already in bed by then thanks to jet lag).

Here’s the view of the hotel’s restaurant:

My little baby in a big bed series is slowly becoming a big baby! Make time slow down, please.

The view across the street from our hotel, and possibly the only family photo taken on the entire trip.

Lisbon Marriott: It is close to the airport, has a really nice pool, and a big breakfast buffet is included.  It’s a 15 minute walk from the closest subway stop (the zoo).  It was a good spot for us to be right next to the airport in the morning, but nothing special. It did the job!

WHAT TO DO:

Banksy Museum: We didn’t make it here, but I would’ve loved to. We saw some Banksy pieces in Barcelona at the Moco Museum, but now we have to go back to Lisbon to see more!

Tram: Don’t you love when people recommend things they have never done? We always walk to see more and get some exercise, but I can totally see the tram being a great way to sightsee and save yourself from the hills.

Claus: Stop by for the best smelling soaps and lotions (and balance out visiting the Fantastic World of Portuguese Sardines store).

Down on the waterfront, we came across the Pope in stones:

Praça do Comércio

Take some time to just wander the city. Everywhere you turn, there are beautiful tiles hidden in alley ways and narrow side streets.

There are plenty of other things to do, and I recapped some highlights here and here from our past trips.

Little guy, big door outside the Lisbon Cathedral. We walked by on a holiday, so it was not open, but Quinn did knock just to be sure no one was home.

Not the Golden Gate, but certainly golden hour

Coming soon-ish: a recap of our trip up North!

DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL

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After leaving Porto, our journey continued about an hour and a half East to the Douro Valley wine region. The Douro River goes all the way from central Spain to Porto. The waterway served as the original mode of transportation for wine barrels to be stored near the city of Porto, and to get to sea. Douro Valley, specifically, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

WHAT TO DO:

Visit the wineries, taste the olive oil, see the historic town and Roman ruins, hit the water for rafting, kayaking and boat tours. If you want more adventure, try canyoning or mountain biking. If you are a foodie, visit the DOC restaurant by a Michelin starred chef. There’s plenty to do, or choose to get some r&r in beautiful surroundings.

Quinta Do Tedo

We arrived in the Douro Valley on Steve’s birthday, and pre-selected a winery to do a tasting at that day. We decided to skip all the big name Port brands and go with a smaller, family-owned, certified organic wine estate, Quinta Do Tedo. They are located at the confluence of the Douro River and Tedo River, and they make port and red wine, plus olive oil. I ‘m glad I made a reservation in advance, because a big group was leaving as we entered. Our tour ended up just being the two of us. The guide was very informative; we learned more than I can remember now!

While I know a decent amount about Scotch whisky production and classification, I know very little about wine, let alone port specifically. Time to taste and learn! For starters, this estate has ‘single quinta classification’, and uses 100% estate grown organic grapes on class ‘A’ vineyards. This means the product is sourced with and produced on one estate. Only 2% of vineyards in Douro Valley receive the ‘A’ rating, making this a coveted classification.

Beyond these basic classifications, there’s vintage, late bottled vintage, tawny, ruby, and even rosé varieties. I won’t bore you with the details, you should just go visit yourself to learn more!

hand stenciling on labels

Something I had never heard before: Port can be made anywhere, but Porto must be from the Douro Valley in Portugal. If you want authentic Port wine, make sure the label indicates it is ‘Porto’. Also, some types of Port can be stored opened for quite some time; our tour guide explained that the Portuguese drink Porto for special occasions, perhaps opening for Christmas and finishing the bottle around Easter. I’m sure part of that is personal taste preference, but if you can make it last longer to savor it, I say go for it! Keep in mind that port wine has a higher ABV than regular wine; sip responsibly!

Anyway, enough education. To sum it up, the tour was very informative, the wine was great, the olive oil was fresh and the cheese plate with the tasting was delicious. It was an excellent way to kick off our stay in the Douro Valley.

WHERE TO STAY:

I use Hotels.com for work travel (that link gets you 2 bonus night toward your first reward night!), which gives you a free hotel night after you book 10 stays through their site. I had a reward just burning a hole in my pocket, which led me to search for options in the Douro Valley. Surprisingly, I saw few options. I’m not sure if local hotels don’t participate in the website, or if there really aren’t many lodging choices. Either way, that is where I found Six Senses. After checking out their website, I had a hard time looking elsewhere. It looked amazing, and it really exceeded our expectations in person. I think it was also discounted for the off-season, which really helped.

Apparently, they have a hotel dog. I am very sad to say we did not meet her. Besides that, everything was fantastic. The hotel is set on a large plot of land with hiking trails, atop a hill overlooking the river. The weather was overcast and cool, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying the fresh air. I can imagine the outdoor pool is the place to be in warmer months!

The indoor pool hit the spot during our visit, as did the saunas and steam rooms. The hotel provided a day-by-day schedule with the offerings like fitness classes/group runs, wine tastings, garden tours, pickling and tonic classes, and DIY body scrub classes. The spa looked very inviting, too!

“alchemy lab” for essential oil concoctions
already dreaming of visiting another Six Senses location
walking trails on the property
spa/pool area
breakfast insanity in the cheese and meats room
every food you can imagine

The breakfast buffet was insane. Maybe it’s a good thing we did not go in warmer months because it would not pair well with summer beach bods.. Another dangerously amazing feature was the wine vending machine. Slip in your room key, select one of three wine pour sizes, and voila, a self serve station! We had a little pre-dinner sample and a post-dinner fireplace nightcap, all with a little swipe of the key.

self serve wine

TIPS:

To get to the Douro Valley, we chose to drive. There was essentially no traffic, and the directions were very simple. Gas and tolls were costly, so keep that in mind when weighing options for transportation.

waterfalls on the walking trails

The weather in November for the Douro Valley (town is called Lamego for forecasts) is an average high of 57° and low of 43°, and 10 days of rain. When we visited, it spritzed a little on and off, but we also enjoyed some spurts of sunshine.

with rain, comes rainbows!

See you next year, friends! To see the rest of my Portugal posts, check out my recap of Porto here, Lisbon here and here, the Algarve, Sintra, and Évora.