MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Amazing wine, food, beautiful landscape, and dogs.  Possibly rabid dogs.  What would a trip be without some mis-adventure?  Here goes the final installment of Argentina 2017.

After stopping through Buenos Aires for a day thanks to our flight delay, we flew to Mendoza.  Upon landing, we saw the breathtaking view of the Andes Mountains.  SO beautiful!  After a quick cab ride to the city of Mendoza, we stopped for a quick breakfast at BRÖD.  They have the cutest little terrace and solid food and drink choices.

Fueled and ready to start our wine country fun, we walked over to the rental car office.  I was slightly nervous that they would be out of automatics, despite our request.  Steve did assure me he could learn how to drive stick while on the trip, since it wasn’t our car to ruin.  He must’ve forgotten about the safety of everyone else on the roads, not to mention some of the literal cliff hangers we were about to drive on.  I think we both breathed a deep sigh of relief when the car came out of the garage and was a nice little automatic. Ok, food, coffee, and car accomplished.  On to the hotel!  We stayed at Club Tapiz, about 10 minutes outside of the city.  The rooms are located on the grounds of a winery, along with a farm, greenhouse, and a plethora of animals.  The hotel had all the essentials: free (really good) breakfast, a lovely pool, and happy hour.  I was most excited about the dogs!  How fun!  Just like home, I can be greeted by a furry face that wants belly rubs!  You can see where this is going.

the greeting committee

After settling into the hotel,  it was almost time to being our wine-soaked adventures!  There are so.many.wineries to choose from.  I highly suggest you do your research before you arrive, since most places require reservations to do a tasting.  We decided to start at Bodega Lagarde, a winery closer to the city of Mendoza.  We opted for a tour followed by a lunch paired with wine, which was set outside next to the vines.  The food was out of this world.  The wine was bottomless.  The only down side?  Realizing we would be wearing a bathing suit after feasting. UGH.  After we rolled ourselves home following the 4 hour excursion, we found out that our friend is friends with the family that owns the winery!  Small world.

  All the food was amazing, and they kept topping off our glasses. Whoa!  The tour was very informative, too. After our first winery in Mendoza, we realized we needed to get a better game plan, and perhaps more elasticized waistbands.  We skipped dinner after our epic lunch, which was a very smart choice.  The following day we hiked Aconcagua, which made me feel a little better about the wine and food extravaganza.  We finished the hike day off with dinner at the hotel, which also had fantastic food and wine.  I was set on finding their wine back home, and come to find out, it is only sold at Costco.  Does that take away from the excitement of finding a good wine?  Or should I be pleased about getting a good deal on a 1.75 liter bottle?

Now that we conquered a mountain, we could justify another indulgent day.  It started with the hamam spa at Entre Cielos.  Since we never went to a hamam spa in Istanbul, this was something I really wanted to do.  You go between rooms of differing temperatures and humidity levels, with hot stones and a pool.  I think we sweat out all the wine in the process, and left refreshed and ready to tackle another winery.

At some point on this beautiful morning, I decided to get a pic of the beautiful Andes mountain range at our hotel.  I took a stroll down the dirt road next to the hotel’s pool, just like Steve and I did the night before, so I could get the best view.  Around the time I framed the mountains, a pack of angry dogs stormed me.  I turned away from them, but didn’t want to startle them by bolting.  The littlest dog had, quite literally, the biggest bite.  He nipped my leg in the frenzy.  Then they all calmed down and strolled off.  Well, dogs in Argentina aren’t the pampered pooches you find back home.  It was unclear whose dogs they were, and if they were vaccinated.  Never google ‘rabies vaccine window of time’ when in a foreign country.  NEVER!  Spoiler: I survived.  After a stressful few days, I was able to start the post exposure protocol after landing back in the U.S.  I also learned insurance is pretty much the worst system ever.

View of the Andes. Was the pic worth it? NOPE.

Ok, back to the trip.  We had lunch plans at Casa Enemigo.  This place was jam packed, even with 2 dining rooms and patio space.  There was a resident cat and dog to greet us, too!  The service was impeccable.  It was a little dangerous, since they never let your wine glass get below halfway!  Steve finished a full fish and they asked if he wanted a second… We tried wines produced by Casa Enemigo, plus some made by smaller producers.  The winner in our book was Finca Escuela and Manos Negras.  We searched high and low trying to locate all the wines we had in Mendoza with little luck.  In my search online, I stumbled on Grand Cata, a South American wine store in D.C.  They were amazing and found the importers for almost all of the wines and ordered them.  I cannot wait to have these bottles again and transport myself back to Mendoza and away from this winter weather!

obviously had to say hola to the winery cat

The dessert was a very weird texture, but tasted delightful.  After a translation fail, we finally figured out we were eating spaghetti squash.  Who knew you could make it into a sweet?

After indulgent lunch #2, we headed back to the hotel for pool time.  We had reservations at Bodega Gimenez Riili, a small restaurant/winery in the Uco Valley that evening.  We were both pretty full still, but I really wanted to see that region (about 1 hour South) and sample their wine.  The drive took us through a number of small towns and then into the country.

The winery itself is on the edge of The Vines Resort, but seems to be a separate entity.  The view itself was worth the drive.  The landscape was out of this world beautiful!  Sadly, the service did not compare.  80% of the restaurant guests left before the 3rd course was served, but what we did eat was delicious, and the wine was really good.  I feel really bad for the only server working, who admitted it was her first week on the job.

more winery dogs
this pic was way better than the dog-bite one…

 

WHERE TO EAT:

BRÖD: Perfect for brunch on the patio.

Maria Antonieta: Parisian bistro serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, with an outdoor patio.

NOOK: Healthy coffee/smoothie shop with a VW van half inside and half outside the cafe

El Mercadito Friendly and Fresh:  I think the name says it all.

Josefina:  We had dinner plans here, but were too stuffed from the first winery lunch to make it.

Anna Bistro:  The floral canopy over the patio looks so inviting!

Siete Fuegos:  Located a The Vines Resort in Uco Valley, they have received rave reviews.

WHERE TO STAY:

Club Tapiz was a great mid-range option.  However, if you are looking to splurge, definitely check out Cavas Wine Lodge , voted South America’s #1 hotel by Travel+Leisure, or Entre Cielos, a newer boutique luxury hotel.  If you are okay with staying further out (and spending an arm and a leg), look into Casa de Uco or The Vines Resort

THINGS TO DO:

Now, the main reason you go to Mendoza is for the wine.  Neither of us claim to be winos, and I don’t think I’ve ever met a wine I don’t like (except for a potentially rancid white, but even then I still drank some before my mom noticed it was bad?), BUT, sipping a delicious glass under the South American summer sun cannot be beat in December.

The highlights:

Bodega Lagarde

Casa Enemigo

Entre Cielos Hamam Spa

Bodega Gimenez Riili

Wineries that we didn’t make it to, but were on my list include:

Andeluna Cellars

Bodegas Salentein

O. Fournier Winery

Caserena

Terrazas de Los Andes

Susana Balbo

Bodega Renacer

Achaval Terrer

Trapiche

Luigi Bosca

If you’re all wined out, there are plenty of outdoorsy things to do, too.  You can read all about our day trip from Mendoza to Aconcagua here, which I  would highly recommend (along with more SPF)…. Another option is white water rafting from Uspallata to Potrerillos Dam.  If more low key is your thing, check out Cachueta Spa, natural hot springs just outside Mendoza.

In the city, check out Cerro de la Gloria, which offers a beautiful view of the city and a monument commemorating General San Martin’s army, who rode horseback across the Andres to free Chile from Peru.

Plaza Independencia is the center of town, surrounded by 4 smaller squares.

lots of sunbathing pups
street art in the city of Mendoza

TIPS:

I’ve tried getting local SIM cards, a limited international data plan for $25, and an unlimited plan for $10 a day, but I thought there must be a better option.  Enter the lovely retired gentleman I met on our flight from DC to Newark.  We spent the entire flight talking travel hacks, from the best lounges, doggy daycare while traveling, when to upgrade your seats, and phone plans.  He clued me in to T-Mobile’s plan, which allows you to keep your same phone number, has unlimited data, and FREE usage internationally!  All for less than Verizon and AT&T.  Hooray!  Problem solved.  We switched providers as soon as we got back, and collectively pay less than Steve was paying for just his phone line with AT&T.  So far, so good with service in the DMV.  New Year, new phone, new provider, new fridge, new inoculation….This fresh start is starting to get expensive!

You must make reservations for wine tastings, which seemed odd to me.  I am used to wineries that you can simply walk in to, and play your day by ear.  Not the case, but maybe for the best.  There is absolutely no way we could have done a full day of tastings.  The food was so filling, and wine pours extremely generous.

In the city of Mendoza, you must pay for street parking.  There are meter maids patrolling the streets that leave paper tickets on your windshield to keep track of how long you were parked there.  I was certain we were getting issued a parking ticket, but thankfully it was just their antiquated method of metered parking.  Bring cash to pay them!

On a practical note, gas stations have pump attendants who will dispense gas for you.

HOW TO GET THERE:

There are 2 airports in Buenos Aires; the international and the national airport.  We flew out of the national airport to get to Mendoza, but landed back in the international airport in Buenos Aires for some reason.  Flying is the way to go!  Driving would have wasted too much time on a short trip.

TRANSPORTATION:

Renting a car was the best decision we made.  The vineyards are spread all over the region, and to maximize how much ground we could cover, a car was critical.  We also would have had a harder time getting to Aconcagua and Uco Valley if we didn’t have a car.  An automatic was a little costly, but if you can drive stick, prices is very reasonable.  It was really nice to come and go as we pleased, but if you don’t want to spring for a car, there are options.   There are public buses, bicycle rentals, car services, and taxis to get around.

Here is a handy, interactive map of all the places we saw, or were recommended to do:

And that’s a wrap on Argentina 2017!

ACONCAGUA, ARGENTINA

We closed out 2017 with a trip to Argentina, checking off a new continent.  It was…an adventure.  A good distinction in travel is a trip vs. a vacation.  This was definitely a trip. Recaps on Mendoza and Buenos Aires to come, but let’s start with the highest point of our trip, quite literally: Aconcagua.

Aconcagua is one of the seven summits of the world.  It is the highest point in the Western and Southern Hemisphere, and is the highest mountain outside of Asia.  Now, despite being in good shape, we are most certainly NOT trekkers or adept at climbing at altitude.  The good news is this mountain is also considered the highest least technical climb.  Some climbers do this as a practice run for Everest or Denali because of the relative ease.

I should mention, we did not climb to the summit (22,837 ft/6960.8 ms), but instead went to Confluencia, the first base camp (11,090 ft/3,380 ms).  Roughly less than 40% of people who attempt the full climb make it, mostly due to weather or altitude sickness.  The record time to climb and descend is 11 hours and 52 minutes, set in 2014.  This sounds insane to me, considering the average trek is 20 days, to allow ample time for altitude acclimation.

Side note: remember Andes Candies?  They were in the airport lounge in Newark!  It brought back memories from Christmas-time growing up, where they were always out in the candy dishes.  I didn’t know the chocolates were still made, and I never thought I’d have the opportunity to see the real Andes in person.

Anyway, back to the trip.  We drove about 2.5 hours from Mendoza to Aconcagua Provincial Park.  Come prepared, because there’s not much along the way there.

road through a mountain!

The route does wind through Potrerillos Dam, Uspallata, Punta de Vacas, and Puente del Inca, which are all very tiny towns.

Potrerillos Dam
Uspallata
Punta de Vacas

This looks like a dried up river bed, don’t you think?

river bed? I sensed we were getting close when most of the traffic had 4 legs.
aconcagua ticket
Aconcagua ticket

After our scenic drive, we made it the park entrance, where we bought our tickets in the office.  You can get a one day ($500 ARS, or $26 USD), 3 day, etc. pass.  Make sure to bring cash and your passport.  There was one English-speaking ranger on duty who helped us out.

The rangers at the ticket office give you a trash bag that is attached to your ticket number.  This helps ensure hikers take everything with them back off the mountain and prevent litter.  She told us to bring 2 liters of water each, sunscreen, and snacks.  It was a little late to offer this advice, since they have no potable water, supplies, etc. here.  But, they do have bathrooms without toilet paper.  So there’s that.

After we got our tickets, we hopped back in the car and drive to the main parking lot.  We packed up all the water, slathered on an inadequate amount of sunscreen, and hit the path!

The beginning of the hike was so beautiful and scenic with wildflowers and crystal clear skies.  I felt like I was in the Sound of Music!  We followed a group of people up the dirt path toward the snow-capped mountains.  You can’t really get lost, just keep your eye on the snow.  After we made it past all the trekkers with huge backpacks (I cannot imagine carrying all that extra weight), we had the trail all to our selves.

found on my camera roll…

The bridge was the end of the ‘leisurely stroll’.  The path eventually turned a bit rocky, which made it a little challenging.  As we continued on, the altitude started to take its toll on us.  I felt like a moon man moving in slo-mo, even when the climb wasn’t that steep.

At one point, we stopped every few minutes to take in some air.  The scenery was just as breathtaking as the lack of oxygen.  Avalanche zone?  Cool.  Let’s take a break right here.

There are signs along the way estimating how long it will take to get to Confluencia, and up until this point, we were crushing it in half the time.  That soon ended, but the excitement of finally making it helped carry us on to the final stretch.  Some mules were coming back down the mountain, and I couldn’t be more impressed by their agility.  I assume they were carrying supplies to and from the higher elevations.

Made it!  Once we reached Confluencia, we checked in with the park rangers there.  They recorded our ticket numbers and sent us on our way.  They offer medical care at this camp, and those forging on to the next camp can stay overnight here.

obligatory photo-op

To Steve’s displeasure, I insisted we climb the little hill past Confluencia to get the best view.  Time for a snack, reflection on our accomplishment, and a few pics.

After taking it all in, we set back on the trail to get down.  Based on our speedy ascent, I thought we’d be back down in no time.  Again, the altitude and high winds had other plans for us.  The mules sprinted by us as we shuffled along, realizing the sun was slowly sizzling exposed winter-white flesh.

 Finally, back down to where we started!  After completing the hike, we were told to check back in at the ticket office.  I like that accountability, so hopefully no one gets left behind!  After checking in, we sought out water.  I have never wanted a cold drink more!  We stopped into Puente del Inca, just down the road, for hydration.  I’m not sure if it was the extreme thirst or what, but Powerade Apple flavor is amazing.  Is that a thing in the U.S.??

This hike turned out to be a highlight on our trip.  Would I tackle the Himalayas next?  Probably not.  But never say never!

TIPS:

Dress appropriately.  It was 90 degrees the day we went, but with the high winds and increasing elevation, it did not feel that way.  Sunglasses and a hat were key.  I wish we had brought even more water, and been more meticulous with sunscreen application.  Ouch.  I have a handprint on my shoulder, lovely.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Santiago, Chile and Mendoza, Argentina are the closest airports.

We drove from Mendoza, and it took about 2.5 hours.  There is a checkpoint near the park entrance guarded by the military.  Tell them ‘A Aconcagua, no Chile’.  The Chilean border is nearby, and part of the mountain range is technically a no-man’s land.

Another option is to take a bus from Mendoza.  The bus takes 4 hours, and runs 3 times a day.

WHEN TO GO:

Summer time- the weather is very unpredictable.  It can get VERY cold with high winds at any time of year.

Mendoza and Buenos Aires recaps coming soon!