SONOMA, CALIFORNIA

sonoma californiaAnother flight credit about to expire.  What to do?  Find a destination equivalent to the credit and just go!  I had been wanting to attend an Outstanding In The Field dinner for quite some time, and their fall schedule included a stop in Jenner, California (which is in Sonoma County).  An almost free flight to California seemed like the perfect time to check it out and escape from the East Coast for a few days.

We flew into San Francisco late on a Friday night and stayed in the city.  I can’t say our hotel comes highly recommended, but it did the job.  We started the day with breakfast at The Grove and had the chance to catch up with my old college friend, Christa!  One of the best parts of travel is connecting with friends who have spread out all over the country.  Luckily, a number of friends live in warm and sunny California!  

After breakfast, we made our way to the beautiful Fairmont Hotel (where we didn’t stay..) to pick up a rental car.  That way, we didn’t have to back-track South to the airport.  A fifteen minute walk in perfect fall weather? No big deal.  I forgot to factor in the 45 degree incline up the entire way. With backpacks. Got in our cardio, that is for sure.

The hotel was in the midst of decorating for Christmas, and I was feeling that life-sized gingerbread house.  Decor for gingerbread party 2019??

After picking up the car slightly out of breath, we were on our way North.  

san francisco golden gateAbout an hour into our drive, we stopped in Petaluma for lunch.  It’s a small, walkable town on the river.  We somehow walked right by Wild Goat Bistro (our intended lunch stop), but ended up next door with chicken kebabs and a table outside in the sunshine.  Since check-in at the hotel wasn’t until 3pm, we wandered around town.

 Just up the street, I found a gluten-free bakery that also had egg-free treats.  Salted chocolate peanut butter filled cookie sandwich was a winner. 

petaluma sonoma california gluten egg freepetaluma sonoma gluten egg free petaluma sonoma gluten egg freeThen, off to the pet store to get the dog a bottle of Kennel Relax’n and some California catnip buds for the kitties in our life.  

petaluma sonoma pet store
artwork I can get behind

petaluma sonoma pet store Oh, and an outfit for dinner the following night.  I didn’t pack accordingly to the warmer-than-expected temperatures.

petaluma sonoma Time to hit the road before I could spend any more money.  About an hour or so further North, we arrived at Applewood Inn and Spa tucked into the woods in Guerneville.  The inn is small, with 19 rooms.  

view from our room

guerneville sonoma applewood inn guerneville sonoma applewood inn A free wine and cheese pairing was offered from 4-6pm the day we arrived, which was a nice way to ease into wine country without leaving the property.   

guerneville sonoma applewood innThe breakfast chef hosted the tasting, which included some amazing cheese and quince paste.  I’ve been trying to find quince ever since having it in Greece to no avail.  The chef explained the lengthy process of making the spread by cooking down the fruit, grown on the property, for hours on end.  So, maybe I’ll just continue my search of quince already made into a spread…

guerneville sonoma applewood innAfter, we enjoyed the hot tub and our little patio off the hotel room until the sun went behind the trees and it cooled off quite a bit. 

 Early to bed, early to rise (especially with the combination of daylight savings time happening that weekend).  The hotel included a 2 course breakfast in the lodge, complete with bottomless coffee and fireplaces.  Banana polenta, heaps of veggies, plus avocado and bacon made for a solid base for a busy day.  

guerneville sonoma applewood inn

guerneville sonoma applewood innWe drove about 45 minutes North to Healdsburg, another quaint town, bustling even at 10am. 

To note:  there’s one main road to get there, and a power line went down and closed the road.  Check your maps before departing, because cell service is weak in that area.  Thankfully I figured out directions by looking at a MAP (the horror of no technology to guide us!) but we had to backtrack a bit. 

healdsburg sonomaFirst stop: Healdsburg SHED, to try out their fermentation bar.  Only in California can you go to a fully stocked kombucha, homemade shrub, and water kefir bar.  Sauerkraut or kimchi shots? They’ve got those, too! If I didn’t hold strong to my carry-on bag only policy, I would’ve bought THEIR QUINCE JAM! to bring home.  The pine cone syrup also sounded intriguing.  healdsburg sonoma healdsburg sonoma healdsburg sonomaThere are a number of tasting rooms and boutique stores lining the streets of Healdsburg, which came in handy when searching for perfume.  Our rental car smelled like someone left old cheese under the seat for a week, compounded with a fish that died and decomposed in the trunk.  I was a little worried our clothing absorbed the smell and would offend our dinner companions later that evening.

healdsburg sonoma After masking the smells, we proceeded onward to Preston Winery.  Normally, I don’t like to visit the same places twice.  But I’ll make an exception when cats are involved.

preston winery sonomaThis trip marked my third time in the Sonoma/Napa region, and on the last trip we discovered a cat winery.  How could we not visit our feline friends when they were a mere 15 minutes away?  Plus, they have good wine.  They are also an organic and biodynamic property.  I am no expert in the wine lingo, but these sound like good things!  

I counted at least 6 cats in the first 10 minutes, so it was basically heaven.  A striped gray cat made himself comfortable in Steve’s lap.  Perhaps it was Griffey, reincarnated as a winery cat living out his days chasing mice and swinging off the grape vines.  

preston winery sonomapreston winery sonoma preston winery sonoma preston winery sonoma This blue-eyed white cat leapt out of a vine as I walked by to pet another floofy cat.  It sensed pets were being doled out liberally.

preston winery sonoma

preston winery sonoma preston winery sonomapreston winery sonomaAfter our feline fix, it was time for the main event!  Outstanding In The Field is a dinner series held across the world, focusing on local producers. This particular event was held on the Jenner Headlands Preserve where Markegard Grass-Fed has cattle.  The event partnered with Leaky Barrel Cider and Carr Vineyards for the beverages.  The chef and team from Nightbird in San Francisco made the meal.

The rancher from Markegard Grass-Fed explained the environmental impact of cattle, and what exactly that means.  I think we should all learn where our food comes from, and what effect our choices make. 

Before the meal began, we were able to see the cows from Markegard Grass-Fed up close and personal.  They were pretty indifferent to the paparazzi snapping photos left and right.  Have you ever seen a furry cow?  They look so soft and cuddly.  While I don’t love seeing my food alive, it’s comforting to know these animals live on plenty of land to roam and with ample grass to eat.  I saw cows trotting up and down the land as far as the eye could see.  I’ve actually never seen a cow move that fast!

stunning photo from instagram.com/abinormality

The rancher explained that cows are meant to eat grass, not grain.  They have a symbiotic relationship with the land, by eating the plants that could cause wildfires when not trimmed back, fertilizing the land, etc.  This system of farming creates more life over time.  Other types of farming deplete the land in the process.  

When you go for that cute shot overlooking the water with wind-blown hair, and it doesn’t turn out quite as expected.

Part of the tradition of Outstanding in The Field is to have a unique plate.  You can bring your own, or select one of theirs from a stack of mismatched plates.  Following my no-checked-bags rule (and who flies with a plate?), we borrowed one of theirs.

outstanding in the field jenner sonoma  I took way too many photos becuase it was almost impossible to capture the beauty (and full table) in one shot.

We shared a meal and conversation at one long table for 250 people overlooking the coast line.  Most of our dining companions were California natives, but in true 6-degrees of separation fashion, a fellow former Rochesterian sat a few seats down.  It was an eclectic mix of young and old, large corporation employees (Apple, Levi’s) and entrepreneurs. 

outstanding in the field jenner sonomaWe also met the ranch dogs, two Australian shepherds who appeared to be living their best life.  How did I not get a photo??  The rancher said the key to their pearly white teeth is the number of bones they gnaw on.  I imagine they have quite the selection on the ranch!

After a wonderful evening, we hit the hay and got up before the sun to drive back to San Francisco to fly home.  Even that was picture perfect, with a glimpse of the moon.

All in all, a spectacular weekend!  I can’t wait to get in some more West Coast in February, with San Diego (work), Seattle, and Portland (fun)!  As always, below is a handy map zoom out) with restaurant, winery, shopping, and activity suggestions pinned in the San Francisco/Sonoma area.

ATHENS, GREECE

travel guide for athens, greece

I set the bar really low for Athens, since pretty much everybody who had been said it was underwhelming.  I am happy to report back that it’s not that bad!  In fact, it was a wonderful city oozing history, plus good food and drink.  We had the pleasure of stopping through the city on both ends of our Greek vacation.  The only downside (other than losing all the wonderful pictures I took on my camera and therefore using iPhone pics here) is that we arrived the night before a big national holiday.  So, many restaurants and shops were closed the following day.  All the tourist attractions were still open, so it didn’t slow us down too much.

The closures really made me think about how we celebrate holidays in the U.S.  Nowadays, stores are starting Black Friday sales ON Thanksgiving.  Can’t we just have one whole day with zero ‘to-do’s’, sales to hunt down, or places to be?  It’s refreshing to have nothing to do but spend time with family, and I wish Americans would slow down and realize that.

Anyway, back to Athens, what you came here for.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK:

On a mission to have all the cappuccino freddos in Greece!

travel guide for athens, greece Cappuccino freddo
Cappuccino freddo

travel guide for athens, greece six dogsSix Dogs:  It’s a little hard to find, but wander through the deserted alley, down the fun stairs, and enter the garden oasis!  While I absolutely loved all the Greek salads during our trip, we were excited to eat something different for this meal.  Also, they have dogs on-site.

travel guide for athens, greece six dogs travel guide for athens, greece six dogs travel guide for athens, greece six dogs

Just looking at this spread is making me hungry.

travel guide for athens, greece six dogs travel guide for athens, greece six dogs

Las Ramblas was a winner.  Also, when your work follows you around the world!  What can I say, I am dedicated to the job.

The Clumsies

travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies

Named one of the best cocktails bars in the world, it did not disappoint.  The drink menu is written in invisible ink, so you are given a special flashlight to view it.

travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies

Sauerkraut syrup and Ancho Reyes Verde made for a really unique drink.  Work continues to follow me!

travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies
Yamas! Cheers in Greek

travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies travel guide for athens, greece the clumsies

Telaro: This provided some respite from the baking sun.  And there was a resident cat, so of course we stopped to say hi.

travel guide for athens, greece telaro
I blended right in.

travel guide for athens, greece telaro
fresh pomegranate juice

travel guide for athens, greece telaro travel guide for athens, greece quince

While this is not a restaurant recommendation, it is a strong suggestion to go find quince, as shown above in Greek yogurt.  It tastes like honey, but has a delightfully chewy texture.  I am on the hunt to find it in the U.S., but not having any luck.

 

WHAT TO DO:

There are ancient ruins everywhere, even hidden in the sidewalk.

travel guide for athens, greece

Since there is so much to see, buy a pass to see the Acropolis along with about 20 other sites in the city.  If you are short on time, the Acropolis is the big one to see.  If you have a little more time to explore, stop into some of the other attractions included on the ticket.

travel guide for athens, greece acropolisThe Acropolis translates to ‘the highest point of the city’ and encompasses a number of structures on the hillside.  Some parts have been restored, due to damages from war and weather, but the bones have withstood the test of time.

travel guide for athens, greece acropolis
I spy someone taking a selfie

travel guide for athens, greece acropolis

travel guide for athens, greece acropolis
The Parthenon

travel guide for athens, greece acropolisBelow are locations included in the Acropolis ticket, but found in other parts of the city.

travel guide for athens, greece
The OG Nike

travel guide for athens, greece

travel guide for athens, greece
Ancient Agora

If you forgot the history of the Roman Empire, here’s a quick refresher.  Hadrian is kind of a big deal in Athens.  He ruled the Roman Empire and was considered one of the ‘Five Good Emperors’.

travel guide for athens, greece
Hadrian

It was truly incredible to see structures dating back to 50 BC and still standing today.  Below is the Tower of the Winds, which is considered the world’s first meteorological station.  It has a sundial, weathervane, and water clock.

travel guide for athens, greece
Tower of the Winds

travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece

travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greecetravel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece In another part of town is the Panathenaic Stadium.  While we didn’t make it inside, the Panathenaic Stadium  hosts THE marathon.  How cool is that?  In case your Greek mythology knowledge isn’t up to date, the term marathon came from a Greek soldier, Pheidippides, who ran from the Battle of Marathon to Athens to report victory. The part of the legend that is less talked about is that he then collapsed and died.  Long distance running is just not worth it, I tell ya!

travel guide for athens, greece

Aside from all the history, there is shopping, too.

travel guide for athens, greece This store only sells products made by Athenian artists.

Cats!  I always find the cats on vacation.

travel guide for athens, greece
Acropolis cat

travel guide for athens, greece
I am the cat paparazzi, catching this feline after hours .

travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece

And hidden dogs.

travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece

Street art is around every corner.

travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art travel guide for athens, greece street art

WHERE TO STAY:

We stayed in Athens on both ends of our trip, and in different neighborhoods each time.  On the front end, we stayed within walking distance of the Acropolis near the Plaka, and on the back end we stayed in a high rise apartment building.

travel guide for athens, greece How amazing is this patio space?  AirBnB success!

travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece travel guide for athens, greece

TRANSPORTATION:

As mentioned in my other Greece recaps here and here, our accommodations offered to book us cars to and from the airport.  Our driver took us right to the AirBnb, and then we proceeded to walk everywhere.  It was quite the workout!

travel guide for athens, greece

On another note, the flight to get to Greece was fantastic.  I was on the fence about booking with Turkish Air, due to a layover in Istanbul (and my last experience in Istanbul involved a serious bout of food poisoning).  It all turned out just fine, and the airport lounge was like nothing I have ever seen before.  That was the best 3 hours I have ever spent in an airport!  They had lockers for your bags, and 2 floors of food and drink.

travel guide for athens, greece turkish airAuthentic Turkish delight, Turkish tea and coffee, hot food, cold food, you name it!

travel guide for athens, greece turkish air

travel guide for athens, greece turkish air
Turkish Delight, without a side of food poisoning this time!

travel guide for athens, greece turkish air travel guide for athens, greece turkish airAnother point to mention is the safety video on the plane.  Does anyone ever really pay attention?  Well, on Turkish Air you do, because the Lego people perform it as a song and dance in both Turkish and English.  Highly entertaining.

travel guide for athens, greece turkish air travel guide for athens, greece turkish air travel guide for athens, greece

Check out my handy dandy map with all the food, drink, sightseeing spots and more.  Just zoom to see Athens!

To read more about our Greek summer vacation, check out my recap of Santorini and Naxos.

travel guide for athens, greece acropolis

 

 

 

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

What to do when you have a flight credit about to expire?  See where that dollar amount gets you and go!  We had somehow never been to Chicago, and the flight price and times were just right.  Steve was NOT interested in seeing Chicago, and worried it would be cold and blehhh in September, but it turned out to be nicer weather than D.C.!  Our weekend timed perfectly with Hurricane Florence, so we escaped the rain and 100% humidity in D.C. and arrived to 70s/80s with virtually no sticky air in Chicago.

We both agreed we really liked Chicago.  Like NYC, but cleaner and greener.  I’m sure our opinions would change in the winter, but hey, we survived life in upstate NY…it can’t be THAT bad, right?

WHERE TO STAY:

We stayed in an AirBnb in Lincoln Park.  It was pricey, but in a nice neighborhood within walking distance of the park and beach.  It was a little walk to the subway, but there were also buses running nearby.

the prettiest tree-lined neighborhoods

security watch cat hard at work

WHERE TO EAT:

The most important part of travel is obviously the food, which Chicago has no shortage of.  Let’s start with caffeine, shall we?

Hero Coffee: Multiple locations, but this one was just the cutest.  There’s no inside space here, but the little alley way seating area was a perfect respite from the warm temps and sunshine.  It was also Instagrammable paradise for the fashion bloggers who kept coming in to snap pics casually sipping their drinks with the twinkle lights in the background.

Left Coast Juice:  WHY do we not have more of this in D.C.?  I love South Block, but wish we had something like this, too.  Healthy eats, smoothies, and coffee.  They have multiple locations, and we ended up visiting 2 of them.

It can be hard to find a savory breakfast when you don’t do gluten or eggs, but this hit the spot!

corn tortillas and tofu breakfast tacos

 

This mural, on the backside of the restaurant, is just one of the Kind Way murals found across the U.S.  Check them out, what a happy series!

Love this mural project!

On our walk to Left Coast, we encountered a Bill’s bar.  I didn’t catch the name, but I understand that Bill’s fans need a place to drown their sorrows in every city.

Ipsento 606:  This coffee shop is located right off the 606 park trail.  We enjoyed the green space adjacent to the coffee shop to soak up a little more sunshine.

green space between Ipsento and the 606

Paradise Park: This place was so fun!  It is half inside, half outside with a kitschy retro trailer park theme, if that is a thing? They have gluten free pizza and cheap champagne.  A win in my book!

bathroom decor

Bad Hunter:  Described as a “veg forward” restaurant.  Pretty interior, probably should have opted to sit inside because no shade patio was not forgiving.

Real Good Juice Co.:  Apparently they have since changed their name to Real Good Stuff.  Maybe they have more food now?  Either way, this gluten free avocado toast was  delicious.  I was a bit envious of the real deal bread; it was so thick and luxurious looking.

Goddess and Grocer:  Prepared foods, salad bar, and small grocery selection.  Multiple locations and another concept called Goddess and The Baker, too.

Three Arts Cafe at Restoration Hardware:  We walked in to see it, but there was a long wait.  Look how beautiful it is, though!

WHAT TO DO:

We stopped through the Green City Market in Lincoln Park and it was huge!  And pumpkins had arrived!

The 606:  This is similar to the High Line in NYC.  If I were a biker, this is where I would go!  It’s also a great running trail.

I don’t remember the name of this, but we saw about 10 wedding parties getting their pictures taken here.

There are beaches!  The beach is accessible via an underground tunnel, so you don’t have to cross the busy street above.  There’s a paved pedestrian road right next to the beach with plenty of bikers and runners.  I saw a few runners post-workout jump into the lake to refresh.  What a great reward after a sweaty workout!

We stopped through a fall festival at Fulton Market District, which was lined with a bunch of restaurants.

Lincoln Park:  The lily pad garden in the park was specifically recommended to us, and it was well worth a visit.  What a serene little pocket of the park.

Millenium Park: Go be touristy and see Cloud Gate, aka The Bean.  The park has a whole series of gardens and a little waterway.  A number of people were cooling their feet off in the water, but I’m not sure how clean it was…

“No, I won’t need sunglasses”- Steve

time to give up getting the bean and opened eyes in the same pic

dirty water feet

Street art:  Go wander the streets and you’ll discover some fun art along the way!

Although we didn’t get around to it, I hear the architectural boat tours are worthwhile as well.

TRANSPORTATION:

We walked almost everywhere.  About 11 miles on Saturday to be exact.    I didn’t realize how big the city was until weThe subway was great getting mostly North-South.  We Ubered across the city East-West direction.  The bus system is supposed to be easy to navigate as well.  There are Divvy bikes if you want to cruise around on 2 wheels.

Below is a map of everything listed above, and then some.

Do you have any tips for Chicago?  I can’t wait to find a reason to go back!