SAN SEBASTIÁN, SPAIN

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What is summer without a beach? While Southern Spain and Portugal are beautiful in summertime, we were seeking out cooler temps. That way, Quinn could be comfortable since he was too little to wear sunscreen and play in the water. Google Flights pointed us to Madrid as the cheapest spot to fly into in Europe, and San Sebastian is about 4.5 hours from Madrid via car. We decided to road trip around Spain to break up the drive (recaps for Valladolid, Madrid, and Bilbao to follow).

Meet Larry Langosta, Quinn’s first souvenir. He came from San Sebastian and kept him company on our road trip.

WHAT TO DO:

San Sebastian was actually much bigger than I imagined, with lots of waterfront, walking paths, restaurants, etc. The biggest attraction is the beach! Or should I say beaches. La Concha (on the shell shaped bay) is the biggest, Ondarreta is on the same bay, but quieter, Zurriola is big for surfing, and Santa Clara Island when it is low tide. Temperatures are mild, which made sunbathing beach days unpredictable.

We had one day warm enough to enjoy the sand, though. Rental chairs and umbrellas are snapped up early in the morning, however the boardwalk by the beach provided a nice shade for most of the day. Quinn’s muslin blanket sufficed as our beach blanket while he napped in his chariot, as we like to call it. If we had more beach days, we would’ve bought some of the cheap beach towels and an umbrella at one of the souvenir shops.

I hope COVID is a distant memory sooner than later, but in the meantime, we will remember the summer of face mask tans.

Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus is an impressive Roman Catholic church in the old part of town. While there, wander the small, winding streets for hidden treasures.

Gipuzkoa Plaza is a beautiful park in the middle of the city, complete with swans, ponds and gardens. We grabbed coffees across the street and enjoyed the peaceful scenery.

The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd was stunning at night!

Monte Urgull, a scenic overlook of the city and water, can be accessed starting at the San Telmo Museum. Unfortunately it would have required about 5 gazillion stairs to get on the trail, so we decided against it with the stroller/lugging a baby in the carrier. Instead, we took the road and walked along the water, which provided an equally amazing view (and an elevator by the aquarium to get back down). Monte Igueldo, another scenic overlook with attractions can be accessed via funicular.

Stroll along the boardwalk at night for live music, street artists, etc.

Chillida Leku is an open air museum a short 15 minute drive from San Sebastian that I would’ve liked to fit in, but we didn’t make it.

TO EAT:

The second biggest attraction: the food! I basically plan trips around where and what we will eat and drink. I love trying the local cuisine (within reason…) and going to places that locals would go, not the touristy spots when possible.

This may be a COVID thing or a peak August vacation time thing, but make dinner reservations! San Sebastian is known to have the most Michelin-starred restaurants per square meter in Europe, but they also have plenty of more casual options. We ALMOST booked lunch at Mugaritz since another food trip we had booked pre-baby (Noma in Copenhagen) was canceled due to COVID, but the price tag and unpredictability of Quinn’s nap schedule made us rethink. It looked like a fantastic experience, and the FAQs indicated babies and children were welcome. Maybe someday we will go back!

These other restaurants, many Michelin-starred, came highly recommended, but alas, we went to none: Arzak, Rekondo, Zazpi, and TOPA

Where we DID eat:

Koh Tao was our first stop for coffee and dressed up avocado toast with gluten-free as an option- hooray!

On our first evening, not realizing the whole reservations necessary part, we got charcuterie, good cheese, olives and wine for the beach. Nothing beats a sunset view with European-priced meats and cheese.

Kafe Botanika was an excellent spot for healthy brunch. They serve lunch and dinner, but that would’ve required reservations. It was open-air with huge windows and a large outdoor patio garden.

Old Town Coffee had really good coffee and yogurt bowls to start the day off right.

Iraila was a casual takeaway spot right behind our airbnb. They had smoothies, fresh-pressed juice, and lots of gluten-free and vegan goodies.

Maiatza served as an excellent people-watching spot for Quinn, who quietly chatted away to this couple sitting next to us with his sweet little voice. Great gluten-free toast and lattes to fuel us before hitting the road again.

Cortázar– We ate outside, but it was pretty cool looking inside. It was delicious!

Taqueria Santo Remedio tacos hit the spot!

The Loco Polo for popsicles- they are all over the place.

TIPS:

San Sebastian is in Basque Country, where locals speak both Basque and Spanish. English was prevalent as well, which is a good thing because Basque is nothing like Spanish, and our Spanish skills leave something to be desired still.

Funny story..well, not at the time. We got trapped in a parking garage. As mentioned, we understand Spanish, but certainly aren’t fluent. Our credit card kept getting rejected at the parking garage exit, and we didn’t want to hold up any cars that might pull up behind us to get out. So, back we go down the parking garage ramp to find a pay booth. This maneuver rivaled parking in a Trader Joe’s garage. IYKYK… After trying to communicate with a lovely gentleman that only spoke Basque, we finally realized it was debit card only, or at least for foreign credit cards?? So come prepared with cash or debit cards, just in case.

Siestas are a real thing. Restaurants have a gap between lunch and dinner where they only serve drinks. Even the grocery store closed mid-afternoon, so plan your meals accordingly. We should’ve bought more snacks before hitting the beach. Charcuterie, good cheese, olives and decent wine are SO cheap and feel fancy. Since we didn’t have dinner reservations set our first night, we opted for the DIY charcuterie board and brought it to the beach for sunset. That beats most restaurant meals in price and views!

WHERE TO STAY:

Airbnb was the answer for us. We wanted a kitchen, laundry, and living space separate from sleep so we could stay up after Quinn went to bed. Hotels were really expensive anyway, so it worked out. Location-wise, we stayed near the beach in a very walkable part of town.

Recaps of the rest of Spain coming soon..ish, along with an updated map with all the things to do, see and eat after I figure out how to fix it!

SPAIN WITH A BABY

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This summer, we took our first international trip as a family of 3! Quinn joined our family in May, and we knew we wanted him to have a childhood of adventure from the get-go. A lot has happened since our last trip to Europe, but life appeared to be returning to “normal” after COVID 19 vaccines became available. The prospect of summer travel seemed like a reality, so we got baby Quinn his first passport and booked a trip to Spain! Well, the pandemic took a turn with the Delta variant, so we questioned if we should still go. Plus, would Quinn’s passport arrive in time? After we spoke to the pediatrician and obsessively tracked cases in Spain, we decided to go for it. The passport arrived in time, and we did a trial run of flying to NY to see how hard it would be (all the carry-ons! and kind strangers who helped me when I flew back solo). It all went smoothly, and we felt ready to tackle international travel!

Back to Spain: We narrowed down our options by using Google Flights and Madrid happened to be one of the cheapest place to fly into in Europe. We chose Spain because we know the language (at least enough to get by), the highways are simple to navigate, cars drive on the right side of the road, and the weather in Northern Spain would be comfortable for a baby. Steve and I have been to Spain a number of times, but not to the cities on our itinerary.

Even though we are seasoned travelers, we are total amateurs when it comes to adding in a baby and all the related gear needed. We are learning as we go, but here’s what worked for us!

The flight

We had booked a trip to the Amalfi Coast for August 2020, which obviously didn’t happen. So, we had a nice big flight credit from our business class tickets. The question: do you bring a baby in business class? We decided that laying flat would be far more comfortable for us, so we went for it. To note: if you don’t book business class (which would get you entry into the lounge) and travel a decent amount, definitely get a credit card that gets you free lounge access. It’s a great pre-flight pit stop to have a snack, set down your bags, and use a nicer bathroom for diaper changes, etc. While services were quite limited due to the pandemic protocols, it was still useful. The return flight lounge was very spacious and quiet enough for Quinn to get a quick stroller nap in, too.

Quinn was an excellent little traveler despite my fear of him screaming and not sleeping. The only downside was no bassinet, which is only available in economy plus in the bulkhead rows, and subject to availability. I made a firm pillow moat for Quinn to sleep in, but it still made me a little nervous so one of us stayed awake to make sure he was secure.

amy and quinn

Transportation

A car rental was the best decision. While we could’ve used public transportation to get around, having a car to be on our own schedule (and keep all the bags and gear) was so helpful. Our carseat can be used with or without a base, so we were able to just buckle the carseat in to the car. Car rental companies may offer carseat rentals, but aren’t particular safe because you don’t know the accident history or how filthy it got with other kids using it. Yuck!

What To Bring

We never check bags. Steve hates waiting for bags after landing, and I worry about our bags getting lost. I love a good challenge, so we packed light and attempted to do this with baby. We brought a carseat and stroller, which we gate-checked. We put each in their own giant gate check bags that have a drawstring on top. Most airlines have big plastic bags you can use if you forget the bag….which we did in NY. A travel stroller base and carseat that clips on would save space (and that’s what we did in NY) but we wanted our regular stroller for this trip so Quinn could comfortably nap on the go. This was a bulky item to bring, so it’s a good thing Steve likes to lift up heavy things and carry them around for fun. (Someone asked if I fit in the stroller, considering how big the bag was. I wish someone would push me in a chariot when I got tired!) These items don’t count toward your baggage, so they are free to bring. To maximize these free items, I packed cloth diapers and pack n play sheets in the carseat and buckled them in.

I used a wrap carrier to wear Quinn around the airport and onto the plane, and we used the stroller to hold some baggage while walking through the airport. You can wear baby through security, as the stroller has to go through the security conveyer belt. A carrier could also be helpful depending on your destination. Old cobblestone streets may be a little rough for a stroller, or beach time could be easier with a carrier.

Bring a way to contain wet/dirty items and have wipes handy. You will need this. Many parents suggested a change of clothes for both you and baby that is easily accessible, just in case.

Accommodations

We stayed in hotels on the front and back end of our trip, but stayed in an Airbnb with a washer and dryer in the middle. We were able to wash clothes and cloth diapers during our time in San Sebastian, which allowed us to pack minimally.

Tips

If you forget something or don’t have room for something in your bag, chances are you can buy it in your destination. We brought both cloth and disposable diapers, and bought some more disposables during our trip when we were staying in hotels without laundry facilities.

Many hotels have pack n plays you can request for your room. I don’t know how clean these are, so we brought our own pack n play sheets. We also brought this little fold-up bassinet, which I wanted to use on the plane but it didn’t fit in the seat. This won’t fit Quinn much longer, but it was an excellent option for safe sleep when the pack n plays looked questionable.

Use your baby for early boarding! Regardless of your boarding group number, you can go first if you have small children. Take advantage so you can drop your gate-checked items, secure the best overhead bin space at your seat, and get settled before everyone else is walking by your seat and you are trapped.

Speaking of perks of bringing a baby: you can bring full-sized items for baby. This includes bottled water and milk. Just let TSA know because they may need to do an extra screening.

Have a small bag with diaper supplies available at your seat so you can go to the restroom without carrying your life on your back. There is a small fold-down changing table above the toilet, and most planes had disposable liners to place on top.

This may be a United-specific thing, or maybe all airlines, but I had to print my ticket as Quinn was attached to my reservation. I did not have the option to use the app for my boarding pass.

Prior to our trip, we got CLEAR since our credit card offered a credit for it. You just have to get your eyes scanned and don’t need to present ID/boarding pass to the agent, which was nice as my hands were occupied. Quinn was able to just come through with me. When returning to the U.S., we used Global Entry and found out that Quinn would also need his own membership. We had a nice agent that helped us this time, but good to know for the future.

Recap of our destination in Spain to come soon! It’s only been 4 months since I started writing these posts, but who is counting?! I will get it done before I forget everything we did…I hope.

CENTRAL VIRGINIA

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After a year with little travel, we decided to do a last minute getaway to Central Virginia for Easter weekend. Not a grand adventure, but a change of scenery out in the country was restorative and relaxing! Steve, Magic, and I headed about 1.5 hours out of the city to Madison County, Virginia for some R&R.

WHERE TO STAY:

Inn at Meander: We waited until the last minute to make plans on a holiday weekend and were pleasantly surprised to find this hidden gem. It’s not easy to find a dog-friendly spot! The expansive 80 acre property is located in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It has a trail that wraps around the perimeter of the resort, along the Robinson River, through a cornfield and by the family cemetery. It was so peaceful, and Magic was delighted to have so much space to sniff out.

Robinson River
family graveyard
fireside coffee

We thoroughly enjoyed the breakfast that was included with the room rate, as well as dinner one night on-site. The weather was a bit chilly during our stay, so we had our meals in the main house dining room by the cozy fire. On our second night, it warmed up a bit and we saw some guests enjoying live music and drinks on the wrap around porch out back.

cheese plate at dinner

A little backstory on the Inn, straight from their website: “The farm was patented in 1726 by Col. Joshua Fry, naming it Meander because of the curve in the Robinson River running through. A member of the House of Burgesses and professor at William and Mary, he also served as the commander of the Virginia militia. Col. Fry and his partner Peter Jefferson, father of Thomas Jefferson, surveyed and drew the first official map of the area known as Virginia. Fry commanded the Virginia Militia at the start of the French and Indian War, with George Washington as his second in command. After Col. Fry died from injuries sustained in travel to battle, Washington assumed command of the forces and as they say, the rest is history.

Following Joshua’s death, his son Reverend Henry “Hank” Fry, inherited the property and built the first part of the house naming the property Elim. Henry is buried in the family cemetery located in the field behind the house along with several other Fry and Lightfoot family decedents. His lifelong friend, Thomas Jefferson, visited here often, as did General Lafayette, George Washington, George Mason, and many other patriots. William Wirt, famous 18th Century American lawyer and counsel for the prosecution against Aaron Burr in 1807, spent much of his youth here. At that time, the property encompassed more than 3,000 acres.

Civil War and older relics found on the property

During the Civil War, the mansion housed a Union official, Col. Baynard. Numerous important Civil War battles were fought near the property, which is only 4 miles from Cedar Mountain, site of one of the war’s largest and fiercest cavalry battles. Local historians believe the Battle of Cedar Mountain actually began at Meander’s front gates.

The property name was changed back to Meander in the early 1900s by owner George Shearer, who maintained the property as an estate for his daughters, Judith and Julia. They lived their entire adult lives here, and as noted breeders of horses, cattle, and dogs, the colorful sisters are credited with introducing Whippets to America. The Meander Whippet still sets the breed standard.” Fast forward to 1992, and the private residence became the Inn it is today.

our humble abode
dining room

WHERE TO EAT:

The Market at Grelen: This little garden center has a gift shop, cafe, special events venue, pick-your-own farm, and hiking trails. It is conveniently located up the road from James Madison’s Montpelier. In fact, there is a walking trail that connects the two, so you could get in a hike and earn your lunch! Magic was welcome on the outdoor patio, and we enjoyed some gluten free sandwiches and I can vouch for the homemade ice cream.

Early Mountain Vineyard: This dog-friendly winery has beautiful outdoor seating with reservations for the patio and first-come-first serve picnic tables in the field. They claim to have the voted #1 tasting room in the U.S., too. It was gorgeous inside, although no dogs allowed in the tasting room. The food was top-notch and fancier than your average winery menu.

tasting room

There are more options nearby in Culpeper and Orange, or a bit further away in Charlottesville, but we stuck with the free breakfast at the Inn, along with one dinner there as well.

WHAT TO DO:

Battlefields: We visited the Wilderness Battlefield just outside of Orange, Virginia. It is part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park which encompasses 4 different battlefields and associated sites. This particular site was mostly made up of walking trails, but the outdoor exhibit gave a very informative timeline of the Civil War battle that took place there.

Wineries: Lots of options in the area. As mentioned, Early Mountain was great for an early dinner. We also considered going to DuCard Winery, which has live music, a rotation of food trucks, and is dog friendly. You could drive further out and explore wineries around Charlottesville, but there are plenty in closer proximity to the Inn.

Early Mountain patio

Hiking: Take a little drive and hike Old Rag Mountain or ride down scenic Skyline Drive to Shenandoah National Park.

James Madison’s Montpelier: Check out the estate of James Madison, built in the 1700s. Madison’s grandfather originally settled in the area at a plantation he named Mount Pleasant, and his father James Madison Sr., had a new home built about a 1/2 mile away. This would be known as Montpelier, and later the home of James and Dolly Madison. The gardens and walking trails were blooming, and we thoroughly enjoyed a morning stroll through history. Bonus- it is free to walk the grounds, and dog-friendly (there is a charge to go inside the mansion and to go on a tour).

Jefferson’s Monticello: We didn’t make it to Monticello, but the grounds connect to over 7 miles of dog-friendly trails that are free and open to the public. They do charge for guided tours of the house with timed tickets.

TIPS:

Many wineries require reservations to comply with COVID regulations, with limited walk-in availability. Plan ahead and book a time slot prior to arrival.