SANTORINI, GREECE

Santorini, greeceLet me tell you a little story.  I have been wanting a ‘real’ camera for years now, but didn’t feel like I could justify the cost.  Last year, I decided if I hit my big first quarter sales goal, I’d reward myself.  Well, our team didn’t hit that number.  So, I continued to hold off.  This year, I got a big promotion and decided I finally deserved a camera to record our travels.  My photographer friend (hey Joy!) was helping me learn how to use it and analyzing photos to improve for the future.  She convinced me to get a fancy schmancy lens to effectively capture our memories in Greece, and it took me a few months to pony up the money for that.  I got it just in time for our trip, and figured I’d learn on the fly!  I couldn’t have asked for better subject matter to practice with.

I tried to get a wi-fi device for the camera so that I could upload to the cloud immediately, but I waited too long and even Amazon Prime couldn’t get there in time.  Ah well, I uploaded the photos to my computer as soon as we got home from Greece.  The wi-fi device arrived last week, but I hadn’t plugged it into the camera yet.

feeling defeated

I wrote a post about our time in Naxos last month, and then last weekend, I finally sat down to write up the rest of Greece.  Santorini photos from camera uploaded to blog, check!  I ran out of time to finish my post, and decided to finish it up Sunday night.  I got home, all ready to relax and type up our trip memories, and realized hmmm, my computer isn’t where I left it??  Oh NO.  My camera bag is gone…and my work laptop….and finally, the ancient iPad.  Well, shoot!  Not a good feeling at all.  Long story short, we still don’t know how this could have happened and there were no signs of someone breaking in.  I can narrow it down to a short period of time that I WAS HOME and not in that room.

me RN

I wish I could say this is the first time I have lost my memories, but sadly it is not.  The week we were getting married, my laptop died and all my files were lost.  I was too cheap to pay for iCloud prior to this, so I couldn’t recover any of my iPhone photos saved to my desktop either.  That was pretty devastating, but I got an external hard drive after that so it wouldn’t happen again.  And paid the 99 cents per month for iCloud…Fast forward five years, and I had been backing up my computer pretty regularly, and enjoying the iCloud storage for phone photos.  Life got busy, and I continued to save all my photos to my desktop, but hadn’t backed up on the external since the spring.  You can see where this is going.  The only camera photos that are truly lost are the ones from Athens.  Thankfully, I also took a ton of photos on my iPhone, so not all is lost.  The cloud saved all my old iPhone photos, so that is a huge relief.

sad me after vacation (and eating all the things)

All this to say, USE THE CLOUD and have it back up your computer automatically!  Maybe I am the last person on earth to not have a super duper backup system in place, but I will going forward.  Material items can be replaced, but the visual memories?  Guess we just have to go back to Athens again sometime.

But you know what?  At the end of the day, life is good.  We have our health (minus having mono, but whatevs), our animals (they thankfully didn’t escape during the burglary), and the ability to have these global experiences.  I am so grateful for all of this, and having some photos lost is nothing in the grand scheme of things.  I still love living in the city, but gosh darn it, this is why we can’t have nice things.  Remind me to tell you about our neighbor’s poop revenge package some other time.

absolutely breathtaking view

Anyway, back to the travel.  Let’s get to Santorini, the land of lovers and millennials taking risky selfies by the cliff.  Our time in Santorini was short, but sweet.  It was a must-do while in Greece, and I’m glad we did it.  But, I may have liked Naxos and Athens better because Santorini was so crowded and overrun with tourists.

look at that face!

There are very cute stray dogs and cats everywhere.  They are clearly well cared for, unlike those in Argentina.  But hey, I’ll pet anything since I’m safe from rabies.  Bring it on!

tick-tock tail
such a pretty little kitty

how much I feel like I’ve aged from stress
Bougainvillea tree

WHERE TO STAY:

Since we were only there for a few days, we stayed in Oia the whole time.  There are multiple areas of Santorini to see, each with their own merits.  Oia was beautiful (as is pretty much all of Santorini!).  We stayed in an Airbnb inside a cave.  It had a little pool/hot tub and a small patio overlooking the water.

we had a feline visitor
evening wine on the patio with a view

The iconic blue domed churches, seen in pretty much every picture of Santorini, were right behind our place.  Tourists were lined up at all hours trying to snap an unobstructed photo.  I opted for the postcard, since my attempts did not do it justice.

WHERE TO EAT:

No bad food in Santorini.  I could eat Greek salads and Greek yogurt for every meal and be happy!

Oia Vineyart: This place had fantastic local cheese.  I attempted one of the local spirits, described as fig liqueur, and it was disgusting.  Apparently prickly pear is also referred to as a fig in Greece.  I’m saving you the hassle of trying it yourself, since prickly pear and fig taste NOTHING like one another.

Passaggio: This centrally located restaurant has a nice rooftop with a view.  We had huge Greek salads here after our hike toward Fira.

Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna: This was recommended to us as some of the freshest seafood right on the water.

Kastro: Great views, great food.

Vitrin Creperie Cafe: Loved this place!  Excellent smoothies, crepes, coffee, and a sheepdog.  Really, the last point is what led us there in the first place.  Oh, and the view.

Meteor Cafe: A teeny little restaurant with french doors that open to the caldera, and extra outdoor seating across the cobblestone walkway.  It was a nice little respite from the heat, and allowed for some camera practice time.

Melitini: cozy restaurant off the main drag, but not open in the morning.

Sun Spirit: excellent sunset views, but for a price

As always, the map at the bottom has even more suggestions.

WHAT TO DO:

Atlantis Books: Fascinating back story on this bookstore started by American college students.  It is a must-see if you are in Santorini!

rent a cat!
said cat
and the cat again
love this!

Sunset catamaran cruise:  This was one of the most fun things we did!  Unlimited wine, fresh grilled food on the boat, snorkeling, and a gorgeous sunset.  We saw rock formations, the caldera, the black, white and red sand beaches.  We met a raucous group of Australians and had a great time.  One of them insisted on doing a photo series during the sunset.  99% of the photos are so ridiculous and involve Thriller dance moves, so this is all I got.

our new Australian friends
the beginning of the hat
‘mid way through the ocean spray’ hat

and the final demise of the hat

    Explore the ruins of Akrotiri, which is like the Pompeii of Greece.  It is also thought to be Plato’s inspiration for Atlantis.

If you have time, you can kayak around Santorini.  We chose to go down to the rocky beach in Amoudi Bay and swim there.  It takes a lot of stairs to get to the bottom, and we shared the path with donkeys who were much faster and more agile.

Once we arrived, we saw more adventurous people cliff jumping, but I was happy spectating.  I’ve never been much of a thrill-seeker, and after observing an eventful cliff jumping incident in Jamaica, I will never ever do it.  Thanks, Dana for scaring me out of that for life!

Hike: Hike the trail from Oia to Fira, or just part of it like we did.  The path runs high-up along the Caldera for a wonderful view of the water.

Another suggested hiking route is Pyrgos, a fortress settlement to Kasteli Castle, and then traditional settlement of Exo Gonia. Stop at ArtSpace Winery, then to Panagia Episkopi, an 11th century Byzantine church.

TRANSPORTATION:

Santorini is accessible via plane or ferry.  We opted to fly from Athens to Santorini, which only took about 30 minutes (vs. 8ish hour ferry ride).  We then departed Santorini via ferry to get to Naxos, since it was only about 2 hours away.  Keep in mind most things are not on time in Greece.

Once we arrived in Santorini, we boarded a bus arranged by our Airbnb.  Someone met us at the bus in Oia and walked us right to the Airbnb.  I don’t think we would have found our place otherwise, because there are no real addresses in Oia!  The streets are very narrow and pedestrian only, with the exception of some mules.

There are plenty of taxis/buses available at the airport, and to get between the towns in Santorini, you can rent ATVs.

There is a cable car down to the old port, but we took a bus.  It was nauseating, but I can’t imagine a cable car going down a cliff is much better than a windy road.

And because Santorini was so picturesque, here are a bunch more photos of nothing notable, just pretty.

        

Below is a map of all my Greece recommendations.  Zoom to Santorini to see everything!

NAXOS, GREECE

travel guide for naxos greeceSummer vacation 2018- spolier alert: nothing crazy happened.  No food poisoning, no rabid dogs, no missed flights or lost wallets.  So tame!  Except for the sunset cruise…more on that some other time.  Let’s start with the most unique spot on our trip, Naxos.  This Greek island is very rugged, and not overly touristy.

WHAT TO DO:

Hike:  We planned to hike to Halki, a charming small village inland.  Here is a map of the route.  Our hotel arranged a taxi to drop us off in Ano Potamia, our starting point.  It is part of Potamia (translates to river), which is broken into 3 smaller villages- Ano (upper river), Mesi (middle river), and Kato (down river).  Ano Potamia is comprised of a tavern, cemetery, church, annnnd that is about it.

ano potamia cemetery
Cemetery entrance in Ano Potamia

My intuition led us the wrong way up a pretty steep hill by some goats and a ferocious-sounding dog nearby.  After that wrong turn, we hustled back down the hill and found the correct, clearly marked path right where we were dropped off.  Oops.  At least there was a nice view from the top of the hill.

ano potamia goatano potamia landscapeThe correct path led us through the very small, sleepy village with a rapidly rising elevation.  We followed the signs toward Apano Kastro, and could see it small as a speck.  This is when Steve questioned my description of “easy, casual walk, not a real hike or anything”.

apano kastro naxos apano kastro naxos apano kastro naxos apano kastro naxos

After he grumbled along for another mile, we were rewarded with an up-close look at the abandoned castle.

apano kastro naxosapano kastro naxos apano kastro naxos The views were spectacular.  As far as the eye could see, there was nothing.  Just rolling hills and white rocks dotting the landscape.

apano kastro naxos  I think we could have gone inside the ruins, but I heard some jingling as we approached.  I was concerned there were some mountain dwellers living there who would not be pleased with us crossing the brick wall.

apano kastro naxosTurns out they were security goats.  Or at least goats wearing bells.  I don’t know what happens when you make a goat angry, but wasn’t about to find out!

security goa apano kastro naxos
Security goat
apano kastro naxos
another incognito security goat

Anyone know what these onion-like things are growing on the ground?  Some were light yellow, others looked charred.  There were also stalks growing up out of a few.

apano kastro naxos apano kastro naxos apano kastro naxosAfter checking out the castle from a distance, we trekked on through the small villages en route to Halki.

I found some photogenic cats along the way.

just two kitties, guarding the village

Oddly, we were the only people on the trail for 90% of the time.  I questioned my sense of direction again, but we continued on the path, hoping I hadn’t led us astray.  The signs were less than helpful; it was all Greek to me. (I was waiting for an excuse to use that one).

apano kastro naxos
It’s all Greek to me

naxos halki hikeThe sights along the way included all sorts of berries, grapevines, flowers, and bees.  And shotgun shells.  It all seemed safe and serene except for that last detail…

naxos halki hike naxos halki hikeOnce we approached Halki, there was a sign for a Byzantine-era church.  After hiking all morning, what was another short walk?  The Church of Saint George Diasoritis was built in the 11th century, and is only open during July and August.  The interior frescoes are still intact, and quite intricate.

Church of St. George of Diasoritis
Church of St. George of Diasoritis
Church of St. George of Diasoritis
olive tree, I think

Church of St. George of Diasoritis Church of St. George of Diasoritis Church of St. George of DiasoritisAfter the church discovery, we headed into the village of Halki for a little break and food.

gianni's tavernaUp first: coffee!  Four Tastes is an all outdoor cafe with coffee, crepes, and ice cream.  Greek coffee for him, espresso freddo for me.  Greek coffee is very similar to Turkish coffee, where the grounds are in the bottom of the cup.  Freddo is a delicious iced coffee, with half the coffee blended up with ice.  It’s frothy and delicious, and I must try to recreate it at home now.

four tastes halki espresso freddofour tastes halki greek coffee halki halkihalki After resting, hydrating, and caffeinating, onward to lunch!  I had read great reviews on Gianni’s Taverna, so we stopped in for an al fresco lunch under the grape vines.  I could totally get used to this constant sunshine, never needing to be inside.

gianni's taverna halki naxosThe chicken came right off the spit, paired with the freshest tomatoes.  Maybe it was the appetite we worked up from hiking, but it was some of the best food I’ve had.  All the meals we had in Greece were simple, but so fresh and flavorful.  I’m still not sick of Greek salads after coming back and making one almost daily!

gianni's taverna halki naxosAt this point, we decided to weigh our transportation options.  We could try to find a taxi back to our hotel, or we could navigate the bus system.  The next bus was scheduled to leave in about 5 minutes, and required an advance ticket purchase at a store in town.  Cue Amy running to find the store before the bus leaves.  The shop owner was locking the door to leave for lunch, but thankfully saw my sweaty self sprinting full speed toward her.  I got our tickets and raced back to the bus stop, thinking we had 30 seconds until it arrived, we proceeded to wait another 15 minutes for the bus.  For once, I was glad everything ran behind schedule in Greece.  The bus brought us to the port, where we had to grab another bus back to the beach we stayed near.  It took a little longer than a cab, but was significantly cheaper.

Other things to do in Naxos:

At the port, you can see the Portara, an ancient marble doorway looking out toward the water.  There’s another castle here,  but we did not have enough time to explore the port area.

Vallindras Kitron Distillery: Naxos makes their own liqueur from the citron fruit, which is similar to a lemon.  Check out the distillery and sample the goods.

The more popular hike in Naxos takes you to Mount Zeus, which is the highest peak in the Cycladic Islands. We were ready for some relaxation after the sweaty hike with sun beating down on us, so we opted out of this one.

Kouros of Apollonas:  We did not visit this either, but it looks fascinating.  It is a 35 foot long statue from around the 7th century BC, just lying in an ancient quarry.  Tack it on if you have time!

Beaches:  On our last day, we walked to the beach closest to our hotel, Agios Prokopios.  There are multiple seaside villages on the island, but this was most convenient for us.  You really can’t go wrong with water, sunshine, and a nice breeze.  There were numerous places to rent chairs, or the option of going to a beach side restaurant that offers free seats with purchase.  We paid 8 euros total for 2 chairs and an umbrella.  We were able to walk from our hotel, but there was ample parking, and further down the beach was a bus stop.  If you’re into water sports, there is a beach closer to the port that is VERY windy  and offers kite and wind surfing rentals.  Small world: a met a Greek girl in D.C. whose friend owns the windsurfing shop!

Agios Prokopios naxosAgios Prokopios naxosAgios Prokopios naxosAgios Prokopios naxosAgios Prokopios naxos

WHERE TO EAT:

Everywhere on the beach looked pretty similar, with outdoor seating and plenty of fresh air.  Just walk up and down the beach and you’re bound to find something delicious.

Agios Prokopios naxos Agios Prokopios naxosOur hotel also had great food.  I could not get enough of their Greek yogurt for breakfast!

kavos naxos boutique hotel

TRANSPORTATION:

You can get to Naxos via ferry or plane.  We arrived by ferry and departed by plane…from what felt like the world’s smallest airport.  The waiting area is outside, the bag scanner appeared to be broken, and there was a cat hanging out between the outside and ‘secure’ inside of the airport with the staff.  He looked pretty innocent, though.  The ferry ride was smooth sailing, and the port in Naxos has a bus stop and taxis waiting nearby.

naxos airport

WHERE TO STAY:

We didn’t find AirBnb options, so we went with a hotel.  We stayed at Kavos Boutique Hotel, which is a collection of little bungalow houses, each with a kitchen and outdoor space.  The property also has an infinity pool, gym, and poolside restaurant.  It felt very resort-like, but small and welcoming.  They upgraded us to the honeymoon suite upon arrival, since it wasn’t booked.  I think everyone that worked there assumed we were on our honeymoon, so I feel like we got extra special attention.  I’ll take it!

kavos naxos boutique hotel
our bungalow
kavos naxos boutique hotel
our patio

kavos naxos boutique hotelkavos naxos boutique hotel The grounds were filled with plants, palm trees, and cats.

kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel

kavos naxos boutique hotel
cat naps
kavos naxos boutique hotel
a pool made from millenial’s tears after the unicorn head deflated and ruined the insta-shot

kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel Cats seems to gravitate to us, no matter where we are.  Of course, the mangiest-looking hotel cat wanted love.  He snuck into our bungalow and then jumped onto my lap.  Well, at least I am immune to rabies!

kavos naxos boutique hotel
the pool cat that also joined us for dinner one night

kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel kavos naxos boutique hotel Here is a map of all the suggestions I have for Greece.  Just zoom in to see Naxos pins.  Stay tuned for Santorini and Athens recaps!

RICHMOND, VIRGINIA- PART 1

Richmond!  My favorite city in the Commonwealth.  I spend a considerable amount of time here for work, so I know the hotels and food scene pretty well by now.  Since I have so many places to tell you about, I will break it into 2 posts. I’ll start with the logistics- where you should stay!

WHERE TO STAY:

Airbnb:  Budget-friendly options, try staying in The Fan neighborhood.

The Graduate:  Budget-friendly hotel with a collegiate theme, pretty rooftop pool and bar, on-site restaurant and gym, plus it is within walking distance to good food.

Quirk Hotel:  Mid-range priced with rooftop bar, coffee shop, and restaurant.  There is a small gym on-site, and a YMCA around the corner.  Pink everything!  Cat artwork!  Cathedral ceilings in all the rooms!  On my first visit, I got upgraded to a suite that wasn’t booked.  Sadly, that hasn’t happened again.  Either way, it is still my favorite.  The cutest hotel ever.  They also allow dogs up to 70lbs.

Hampton Inn Downtown:  Mid-range priced with rooftop bar Kabana and on-site restaurant Belle.  It is relatively new and boasts a rooftop pool and gym for a scenic workout.  Free breakfast!

The Jefferson Hotel:   If you are feeling fancy, stay here!  I have only been to the restaurant for work, but it has the most beautiful lobby.

WHAT TO DO:

Disclaimer: I rarely have time for fun while in Richmond, so these are based on my limited personal experiences, and input from the locals I have worked with over the years (and love so much!).

Scott’s Addition:  Richmond’s fastest growing neighborhood.  Explore the breweries, restaurants, bowling alley, etc.

Monument Ave: Check out all the historic statues lining the center of Monument Avenue.

Virginia Museum of Fine Arts:  General admission is free!  I have been meaning to sneak some time in there during my work trips, but haven’t made it yet.

Richmond Street Art:  Wander the streets and find hidden murals throughout the city.

Edgar Allen Poe Museum:  Didn’t know this existed until now, but I must go to meet the museum’s black cats.  Sounds like a perfect Halloween-time activity.

James River:  Hike, bike, run, kayak, paddleboard, swim, tube, rock climb, picnic, fish.  Basically, all the outdoorsy things in one area.  Check out Belle Isle while you are there.

TRANSPORTATION:

Washingtonians can breathe easy driving around Richmond.  I have never encountered problematic traffic, and really appreciate all the free parking.  Of course, you have Uber/Lyft, bikeshare, and walking as options, too.

Stay tuned for part 2, all the food and drink!